*Stunning view on the High Sierra Trail approaching Hamilton Lake*

2021

August 18, 2021 by Willis Wall

Last year my daughter and I did a loop starting at Mineral King with a portion of it on the High Sierra Trail. This year we returned to cover the whole trail starting at Crescent Meadow with a carry over (after tagging the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,495’) to the Whitney Portal. This video provides an excellent background on the construction and history of the High Sierra Trail. At the end of this post there is a video of the Whitney climb itself.

*The trail can be seen cut into the hillsides behind us*

Our itinerary was probably typical for hiking this section, or at least close to it. After securing our permit the day before our hike (necessitating covering the serpentine road to Crescent Meadow), we struck out early on August 7 from Crescent Meadow. There was an active search still in progress for a missing hiker who, as of this writing, unfortunately hasn’t been found. Our original plan was to do an out and back, carrying 8 days of food, making for a 120 mile trip. This would change, TBD later. With heavy packs schlepping two bear cans, we wanted to make it to Big Hamilton Lake for the first night so bypassed Bear Paw at 11.5 miles. This is a spectacular section of the trail, climbing higher into the towering granite surroundings. The trail has been cut into the stone slopes, epitomized by the section around Hamilton Gorge. This was at first spanned by a suspension bridge, the remnants of which can be seen scattered in the gorge, wiped out by an avalanche soon after it was constructed. On the climb to Hamilton Lake, one of our favorite spots is a small pool of water that cascades over polished rock out of sight. An excellent place to take a break and replenish water. My daughter and I are used to hiking in the PNW, where campsites are specified by site number, at least in a park like Mt. Rainier. On this trek we got used to just laying out the tent on any available non vegetated spot. At least Hamilton had an established loo, one of only a few we encountered. It baffled us why Sequoia NP does not have a solar or pit toilet in all the established camping areas, especially considering the high usage and the trend towards even more people partaking of the park(s). Essentially you have hundreds of people over a week having to scope out appropriate spots to try and dig a cat hole, very hard to do properly with the rocky soil available. This is a problem that really must be addressed if we don’t want to have human excrement under every rock; concentrate into one area. But enough of my fecal fecundity…Hamilton Lake was pleasant enough as an overnight spot, making for a 17 mile day.

*The refreshing pool below Hamilton Lake*

Day 2 had us leaving Hamilton Lake early to avoid the blazing sun on the climb up to Precipice Lake, something that knackered us on last year’s trip. It can get very hot on some of these climbs with the sun reflecting off the light colored granite. We enjoyed the changing views down to the lake as we climbed with the sun hitting the adjacent peaks and reflecting in the lake. Arriving at Precipice Lake is a delight and called for a long break for soaking feet and eating. Being the first ones there, we occupied the primo spot and lingered for quite a while. Upon leaving my daughter affixed her umbrella to her pack to mitigate the effects of the now blazing sun, a very effective strategy. The climb to Kaweah Gap was pleasant and, after taking in the views of the Big Arroyo, we descended into the valley. Our original plan was to transit the Chagoopa Plateau and camp at Moraine Lake, but when we were enjoying the terrain of the Chagoopa we came across a perfect camping spot at 10,500’ with ready access to water and decided to turn in early. We knew we could make good time on the descent the following day so enjoyed our solitary camp, settling down well before dark. Of note, the star show was incredible with the Milky Way visible across the entire night sky.

Day 3 After an early get up we practically ran down to the junction past Moraine Lake, making excellent time. As I perused my photos from this day, I only took a few. We descended into the Kern Valley and a very hot afternoon was spent doing the gradual climb up the valley through the burn zone from last year. That climb bordered on miserable in the unshaded heat. By the time we reached our spot for the night at Junction Meadow, we had only climbed about 1600’ but covered 20 miles; we were ready for a break.

Day 4 (14 miles/4200’) was a positioning day; hike to Guitar Lake for an early getup to climb Whitney. Early for us that is, some get up so as to be on top at sunrise. We just wanted to get the switchbacks done (10) before the junction to the spur trail to the summit. Now for that “TBD” earlier: during the evening we were discussing my daughter’s increasing blister problem on one foot and texted my wife via InReach as to the possibility of a ride from the portal back to our vehicle. As it turns out, transportation was available so we decided to go for it. One benefit was that we could hike the entire trail to its end at Whitney Portal. One drawback was that we needed to pack up and lug all our stuff to the junction at 13,500’. Guitar Lake is another camp spot without established sites, but we were able to find a fairly level spot below some other tents. Not sure what some late comers did for their setup that evening as everything seemed to be taken on both sides of the lake and campers are not supposed to set up on any vegetation. We were able to establish camp and eat before dark and settled in for our 3 AM alarm.

*Near Forester Pass on our way to Guitar Lake*

*Timberline Lake with Whitney in the background*

Day 5 we were up at 3 and on the trail by 3:45. The first part was of course in the dark, but it didn’t take long before the predawn light was enough to see the loftiness of our ascent. Views towards the lakes below gradually became backlit by the rising sun illuminating the peaks beyond, making for a grand spectacle. Without troubles we arrived at the junction for the spur trail to the summit, where we dropped our packs and bear cans like most others. I donned my daughters pack and carried our water for the summit out and back. It seems our timing was excellent in that the earlier risers were coming down, and the day hikers were behind us. We enjoyed a fairly uncrowded summit, perhaps no more than 10 people or so the entire time we were there. The summit block is fairly flat and we wandered around to take in the 360 degree views. There is a summit hut that was constructed in 1909 with a warning for hikers not to take shelter there during lightning storms. We signed the summit register and started back for the junction, but only after my daughter discovered we had cell service; she FaceTimed my wife so she could also see some summit views. Others also checked in when they discovered we had service. Lots of day hikers were now making their way for the summit as we descended. Back at the junction, we loaded up, filtered some more water we had packed, and made our way down the 99 switchbacks on the other side. Our goal was to stop at Outpost Camp for the night, 3.5 miles from Whitney Portal. That way we could get up early enough to get some breakfast and clean up before pickup the following day. It was on this segment that my daughter was glad we had arranged for transportation because her blisters were only getting worse; putting in another 3 days and 60 miles would not have pegged her fun meter, and by association, mine either. As we neared Outpost I forged ahead to set up camp so she could just attend to her feet when she got there. Harking back to my comment about lack of latrines at these camps, I discovered 3 poop bags people had left in the bushes near one of the available spots. It’s only going to get worse. With plenty of time, we cleaned up and made dinner, again in the tent before dark.

*Rugged terrain on the spur trail to the summit of Whitney*

*Negotiating the 99 switchbacks above Trail Camp*

Our last day was just descending the rest of the way to Whitney Portal (8300’), arriving shortly after the general store opened so we could enjoy breakfast and clean up for the long ride back to the vehicle at Crescent Meadow. Most of the day hikers had already departed from the portal, many passing by our camp spot during the early dark hours. It was very quiet and peaceful there at 8 AM. It took most of the day to arrive at Crescent Meadow, and we still had 1.5 hours from there to our hotel for the night. None of this was anything to complain about after such a spectacular trip and my daughter’s feet were already on the mend. We felt fortunate indeed to enjoy one of the Sierra’s classic hikes with splendid conditions.

*Early light on the descent from Outpost Camp to the Whitney Portal*

*A welcome sign after hiking the High Sierra Trail*

A shoulder mounted camera captures the essence of our climb from Guitar Lake to the summit.

*Looking down from the summit of Banshee Peak (7400’) to the Sarvant Glacier*

MRNP: Barrier/Buell/Banshee

July 31, 2021 by Willis Wall

These video scrambles can be viewed on the OFF TRAIL pulldown

Chipping away at the Mountaineers 100 peaks in MRNP has provided for solitary days and splendid views. After last week's Wonderland trail hike, I took a few days to recover and went back to the park, camping at White River. I had my mountain bike with me as I wanted to get multiple climbs to Sunrise in along with the hiking, but half way up on the first afternoon I noticed a lot of bouncing going on...my rear tire was going flat. I pumped it up and beat feet back down the hill. When I went to change out the tube, I discovered that all my spares were for my other two bikes. So much for biking.

I slept in and the next day I drove to the Owyhigh Lakes trailhead, surprisingly empty. This trail is quite nice, not rocky or rooty with a good grade for both ascending and descending. Shortly after passing the lakes I set out on a way trail to access Barrier Peak (6521'). The route description was sparse to say the least. I endured some unpleasant steep tree and meadow hiking, passing the barrier (not Barrier Peak, but it's a big hunk of rock) on the right. I mistakenly climbed to a notch which was a waste of energy and had to drop back down, finally finding a relatively clear shot to Barrier Peak. This was hot work and I finally arrived at the summit huffing and puffing. It's hard to describe these top out moments as the breeze cools me off while I rotate for 360 degree views. As I was climbing, the tippy top of Rainier started peeking out and the views towards the mountain from Barrier had the Cowlitz Chimneys as a foreground. From there I set out to Buell (5756') via a connecting ridge, which proved to be quite doable for this old man. All the while the views smacked me in the face on either side and eventually I came to the gentle meadows that led to the summit of Buell, meadows that enticed me from the Barrier summit. Buell is more of a walk up but open enough to continue the viewfest.

*Rainier from the Summit of Barrier Peak (6521’)*

The only thing left was to launch into the forest and drop down to the Owyhigh Lakes trail, and on this account I managed to completely miss the climbers trail if there was one. At least 5 times I was on my bum on very steep terrain, sometimes availing myself of a dry wash off and on as I descended. The slope abated at last and suddenly I found myself on the trail, relieved to be out of that mess. My hands were covered in dirt and pitch from tree and veggie belays. I was quite happy to have such nice trail for trotting back to the van, which I drove back to my spot at White River and proceeded to take a hot shower, drink a cold beer, make dinner and basically chill. Sweet.

Spur of the moment the next day I decided to hit Banshee and maybe Central Cowlitz and set out at the latish hour of 10 AM from White River. This added nearly 6 miles RT to the day vice just driving and parking at the Fryingpan Creek trailhead but I figured there would be no parking there for me anyway. There was a new bridge over the White River so I was able to avoid the road walk, which I had done the week before. Again these trails are quite pleasant with easy going and I knew the meadow climb to Banshee was also mild. I kicked back to enjoy a longish 21 mile RT day, which in comparison to my 30+ mile days on the Wonderland seemed kinda easy. The flowers were blooming on the slopes to Banshee and the goats were below cooling themselves off on a snow field. I like Banshee in that it's basically a walk up but when you stand on the summit it's one of the airiest views I've seen, dropping down to the Sarvant Glacier far below. I departed with the thought to hit Central Cowlitz but as I scoped out the slopes and looked at my watch, I decided to hit that another day. At 3 PM it would have put me back at White River after 9 PM; I need my beauty rest. I was crossing the White River bridge at 7:30 PM so the day worked out just right.

Sure there are times when the going is "quite unpleasant" on some of these off trail summit jaunts, but how I enjoy the solitude, the views and the toil that comes with it. Although I've been exploring MRNP for almost 40 years, it's only been in the last 10 or so that I've been venturing into the "wilds" of the park, divorcing myself from the main boulevards and venturing into the unknown. I have yet to see one other person on these peak bagging trips when I get off the access trails, something to be embraced with the ever increasing crowds and traffic we have all seen. This alone makes the effort worthwhile.

*Cowlitz Chimneys from Banshee Peak (7400’)*

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days: Jul 20-22/2021 (#33)

July 25, 2021 by Willis Wall

Once again I am thankful to be healthy enough to pull off another 3 day transit of Mt. Rainier’s Wonderland Trail. Most of my past Wonderland hikes have been in the fall, so this circuit in July provided some significant contrasts. The longer days meant I spent most of my trail time sans headlamp, putting in 14-15 hour days. I was able to get 6 hours of rest both nights. The flower show was sometimes astounding, with entire meadows carpeted with avalanche lilies and hillsides bursting with myriad colors. The temperatures were mild but not too cold at night; my minimalist fastpack kit was just right for the conditions. I was fit enough to enjoy less suffering than last year and more time enjoying my surroundings. It had been a while since I did a CCW route, so the views were fresh. I also chose the alternate route over Spray Park, last done in 2015. The climbs and descents were different. Everything about this hike was a delight with the exception of occasional periods of persistent mosquitos, something I avoided in my fall hikes. Another downside: trail maintenance on the west side of the mountain was lacking. I encountered a fair number of blowdowns, some requiring crotch -stretching-bark burning gyrations to get around or under behemoth trees. The South Mowich River crossing was still lacking a bridge, requiring a ford (assisted by a steel cable strung across). With the rivers running higher as the day progressed, this posed a problem for people crossing the river later in the day. I crossed at 5:30 AM with mid shin depth, but one report from 8 PM had the water over the cable.

*Avalanche lilies along the Wonderland Trail*

For my almost 40 years in the park the stats for the Wonderland have been 93 miles with 22,000’ of climb/descent; this is what I based my days on. However, after tracking with GPS and Strava for a few years, the numbers for myself (and others reported on line) consistently come in higher. My totals were 101 miles with over 25,000’ of climb for the 3 days. I sometimes question the accuracy of Strava but I mention it here for people who are using these tools for tracking. My Strava stats: Day 1: Longmire to White River (CCW)-34.77 miles/8,787’…..Day 2: White River to So. Mowich River Camp-31.64 miles/8,198’…..Day 3: So. Mowich River Camp to Longmire-34.91 miles/8,720’. Adjust accordingly to mitigate surprises.

See my previous blog article for my kit….with food I guestimate 13 pounds. I never needed to carry more than 20 ozs of water, always spiked with Tailwind; the mild temperatures surely helped with this, as there were only a few periods where I was actually sweating. I judge myself to be in decent shape from hiking, biking and skiing. However, my legs were barking at the end of day 1 due to lack of downhill training. Otherwise I had no physical problems. My feet needed no attention and my pack was unnoticeable. Last year in my video of hike #32 I made the statement “maybe these 3 day hikes will become untenable”…. this will surely happen as I get older but I am encouraged by the fact that, at age 66, this was probably my best 3 day hike since the 90’s. For this I am thankful and look forward to next year’s Wonderland Trail Hike #34, whatever form that may take. Happy Hiking!

*Climbing above the cloud sea to Camp Muir (10,188’)*

MRNP: Camp Muir Sandwich 7/7/21

July 09, 2021 by Willis Wall

Camp Muir is one of those hikes that just needs to be done at least once. It lies at 10,188’ and is the main staging point for climbs on this side of the mountain. In the spring it attracts boarders and skiers, but when the lower elevation snow subsides it sports conga lines of guided parties trudging up the snowfield in large groups one step away from each other….which I call the RMIllipede (RMI is the main guiding outfit here). I’ve come here many times over the years and decided to incorporate the hike in an endurance trainer, sandwiched with two bike rides from Cougar Rock Campground to Paradise.

*Typical climbing group on the trek to Camp Muir*

I started my day with an early getup but slept a little longer due to light rain. Eventually I got on the bike in fog and climbed the 2400’ up to Paradise, also still encased in cloud. My bike excursions were purposefully planned early and late in the day to avoid the heavy traffic during peak times. After returning to the van I quickly packed up and drove up to Paradise to secure a parking spot, as the craziness of these times means that parking can sometimes fill up even on a Wednesday in the middle of the day. After food and equipment changes, I was ready to start the hike. Just a week or so prior I had skinned right from the lot for a ski tour, but after the record setting heat wave at the end of June most of the lower elevation snow was gone. Temperatures were cool in the still foggy surroundings and it wasn’t until above 7000’ that the views opened up. Wild flowers were springing up on the hillsides and the views towards the rock were sublime. For once I was the one doing the passing as the climbers are laden with big packs and kept together (the guided ones) in groups, moving slowly but steadily upwards.

Camp Muir itself is a bustling little “town”, especially when the guided groups are milling around outside of their accommodations. The public shelter was closed and tents were sprinkled around the area on the lee side of the wind. I spent some time getting my snack on and taking pictures before launching for the descent. I became reacquainted with slop running down the snowfield, looking like a drunken person with legs flailing and sliding every which way. Next to skiing, this is a funnest way to descend and very speedy. This climb involves 4800’ of elev gain and loss and I was glad to get back to the van and drive away from the parking lot madness, returning to my spot at Cougar Rock campground.

*Let the flower show begin! (trail to Pebble Creek)*

I admit, I had a moment of weakness. I took a hot shower, made a huge meal, sat back with a glass of wine as I watched something I had downloaded on NetFlix. My body was trying to convince my mind that maybe I didn’t need to do another bike ride and leave the comforts of home. But eventually I shamed myself back onto the bike as the hour approached 8 PM, telling myself that I could at least try it and just return if things weren’t going well. Much to my surprise my legs were ready to crank, and I set PRs for all the Strava segments on the climb. The evening traffic was sparse, the temperatures were just right for only wearing a jersey, and the sunlit peaks peeking through the trees made for the most enjoyable climb. Paradise was still foggy and by now few people were still hanging out. My descent into darkness involved pulling over for just one car; otherwise, the road was mine as I occupied the center. One of the best rides I’ve had here, for sure.

I love to mix disciplines and sandwiching Muir between these two bike rides gave me the endurance trainer I wanted with 9300’ of climb. Retirement is going well indeed!

*The Nisqually River from the bridge, climbing (bike) to Paradise*

Enchanted Valley Chalet over 7 Years: 2014-2021

June 29, 2021 by Willis Wall

In 2014 the Enchanted Valley Chalet was in danger of falling into the recent erosion that undercut the foundation. I hiked out there in April to document the scene with video and photos. Later that year in September, the chalet was moved 100 feet away from the eroded bank. However, further erosion has obliterated any remnants of the old foundation and the chalet now sits a mere 8 or so feet from the edge. NPS has yet to release a final disposition of what to do with the chalet. This video shows the status of the chalet in 2014/2015/2017 and most recently in 2021 so the viewer can see how the erosion has progressed over these 7 years. The chalet still stands for now.

*In 2021 the Enchanted Valley chalet edge was within 8 feet of the eroded bank*

Enchanted Valley (Olympic National Park) 6/24/2021

June 27, 2021 by Willis Wall

On June 24th, 2021 I returned to Olympic National Park’s Enchanted Valley to check on the status of the iconic chalet, built in 1931 and listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2007. The chalet was threatened in 2014 with the foundation hanging precariously over the eroded bank. Were nothing done, surely the chalet would have succumbed and fallen into pieces. However, in September of 2014 Jeff Monroe, a professional house mover, led a party to move the chalet back from the eroded bank 100 feet. On this recent visit I noted that the river had resumed a course much further away from the area of the chalet but continued erosion still had one corner about 8 feet from the edge.

However, it’s not just about the chalet. The 32 mile round trip hike into the valley is an astounding example of old growth forest, paralleling the river and meandering through meadows with towering cedars and resplendent maples. This is a classic Olympic hike that (amazingly) offers no break from the bird song, greenery and ambiance of the rushing river. Enchanted Valley itself is surrounded by towering walls of rock and cascading waterfalls. This is truly a special place. The status and plan for the chalet has yet to be announced by the park service, but this structure has ensconced itself in these surroundings and will be sorely missed by all who have had the pleasure of its presence while visiting if it is dismantled and removed. The following video hopefully captures the grandeur of this hike, which should be on everyone’s list of places to visit.

Wonderland Trail snow sampling: May 16/2021

May 24, 2021 by Willis Wall

In 2019 I decided that my “official” Wonderland Trail snow conditions annual report was no longer needed, as there are myriad places to get this information. However, my participation this year on a Wonderland on line group has me thinking I should post again, at least for this high snow year. Many of the members there are not local and have no experience with snow travel, yet there are many that have permits for the Wonderland in June. Even in regular snow years, June hikers are more likely to turn around or bail from the trail because of snow and lack of trail maintenance. Even access is restricted during this time, as the predicted opening of the road to Sunrise is July 2 and the Mowich Lake road is July 9. This video will provide a sampling of what travel is like on dirty undulating snow in the forest, perhaps the toughest environment for navigation.

*Tarn below Panhandle Gap, Wonderland Trail*

My 2021 Wonderland Trail Fastpack Kit

April 22, 2021 by Willis Wall

For some reason I’m quite excited about hiking the Wonderland this year (#33). Perhaps it’s because I’ve been working hard on getting in shape; not that I haven’t been dutiful in working out over the last 40 years, but because in retirement I can leisurely crank out pushups, do core exercises and attend to shoulders, quads, lats, pecs, delts….all that muscle stuff. Then spend an hour or more on stretching. On outside days I can run the Falcon Trail (13 miles), bike from 30 to 70 miles, or punish my legs on the 314 step Mini Incline at the Air Force Academy. I have a consistent schedule and get plenty of sleep. Covid is hopefully being reined in and my wife, myself and our family and friends have all been vaccinated. With this in mind I depart Colorado the middle of May and make my way back to the PNW.

However, hiking opportunities may be compressed this season. My wife and I are hoping to travel abroad the end of August, not returning until the end of October. The Cascades have seen an abundance of snow, and the Wonderland will probably still have snow to contend with well into July (and beyond in the usual places like Panhandle Gap). My daughter and I are hiking the High Sierra Trail beginning of August so one can see my hiking opportunities may be limited in the traditional sense. I have come up with a plan, however, and here it is.

*Biking in to White River (closed roads) to ski Panhandle Gap/Meany Crest area*

Day 1 Ski Box Canyon to Fryingpan Creek trail head. With a good weather window, I would go as soon as the Stevens Canyon road opens (and Highway 123 also), allowing a buddy and myself to do a car to car. I anticipate carrying until well onto the divide, then skinning and skiing to Indian Bar, then back to skinning across Ohanapecosh Park and skiing from Panhandle Gap to the Fryingpan Creek bridge, then a carry out. This will be no lightweight jaunt considering the equipment we have to take, but at least we’re not planning on an overnight. Or maybe we’ll have to. In any event it will be a new experience for me on this section.

Day 2-3 I’ll pick up at Fryingpan Creek trail head (at some point later in the season) and proceed CW through Sunrise and beyond, with anticipation of taking a break at Mowich Lake via the alternate route over Spray Park. If I’m feeling good I would continue on to Sunset Park and take my rest there. Just stopping to rest for a few hours gives me ultimate flexibility. That leaves the tougher final west side section to Longmire in day light, then finishing up the final section at Box Canyon. Somehow that all comes out to 93 miles and 22,000 feet of climb/descent. The ski portion is about 13 miles so this hike portion is about 80. That’s a lot of ground to cover in two days. Perhaps I’ll leave my van at Longmire and bike to the Fryingpan Creek trail head to position at Box Canyon. Then I can rest at Longmire before continuing on to retrieve my steed, making this closer to a 4 day jaunt (I will have to bike back to Longmire). Speculating only.

Now for the title: what do I plan on taking for this hike portion? I am not strong enough to jog this 80 mile section so I have to plan on rest stops (not camping). That means I really need a sleeping bag and pad to get adequate rest. I would also only do this with a pristine weather forecast, my usual modus operandi. This may be the best reason for fastpacking; going during good weather forecasts to soak in views, not rain. So here’s my proposed kit if everything aligns.

BASIC KIT

Nunatak Nova Insulated Bivy (50 degrees). This little beauty has been discontinued, at least for now. It’s a center zip insulated cocoon with 7d Robic Weather Resistant Ripstop Nylon, incorporating a non insulated hood….1 lb. This outer material handles light mists or light rain well for shorter periods…I wouldn’t want to test it in continuous rain. I’ll wear all my clothing inside.

ZPacks Poncho/Groundsheet I’ve used this quite a bit over the years, both as rain gear and as a ground sheet with a tarp. In good weather this will be my groundsheet, standing by for emergency foul weather. 5.7 ozs.

Klymit Inertia X Wave pad Also discontinued, but perfect for this kind of trip. It’s a 3/4 length pad, 48” x 25” so plenty wide with side rails and a built in pillow area. I put my pack under my feet and lower legs. When I used this on 2020’s Wonderland hike, I put my shoes under my feet. Unlike a NeoAir, this blows up with but a few puffs and the bulb allows me to dial in the hardness. Packs tiny at 10.5 ozs.

Mountain Laurel Designs Mountain Quilt and Bag Liner I used this 3 oz bag liner once as my dedicated bivy bag. It’s so packable and light that it’s worth the weight to use inside my Nova. It will protect the bivy from dirty clothes and will add a modicum of heat retention (MLD claims 5 degrees) to the system. As an aside, I used this in the bunk when I was flying international trips with long sleep breaks. It really works.

Zimmerbuilt Custom Ultimate Pack I had this pack made for just this kind of trip. It is only 4” thick but utilizes my entire back area. It has built in pockets in the minimalist belt, there just to keep the pack glued to my back. It has a center zip for easy access to all the contents, and on longer trips it employs a separate attachable bag for food. 14 ozs stripped down. These “Big 4” items come in just over 3 lbs.

*Zimmerbuilt custom Ultimate Pack (Channel Islands)*

Clothing Long pants (EB), OR long sleeve and hooded Echo shirt, underwear, beanie, cap, 1 pair extra socks, Inov8 trail runners, Showers Pass gloves, OR Polartech Alpha hooded jacket.

Other Glasses, sunglasses, sunscreen, small pack towel, toothbrush, Sawyer Squeeze filter, InReach Mini, iPhone, GoPro Hero 9 with xtra battery, small charger for iPhone, Petzl Actik headlamp with extra Core battery, BD carbon trekking poles, foot kit and minimal first aid, 20 oz water bottle (shoulder carried)

Food Lots of liquid nutrition in Tailwind and Tailwind recovery, Nutella and flatbread, Green Belly bars, nuts, olive oil, Fig Newtons, Peanut M&Ms, Pringles, Pop Tarts.

Over on Reddit r/ultralight people get very specific on worn weight vice carried weight and so on. My method: step on scale naked. Weigh. Put on clothes and pack with full water bottle and food (don’t forget to hold the poles!). Weigh. The difference is what you’re carrying. Easy. I don’t have all my stuff with me but I’m anticipating this final weight to be 12 lbs or less. That’s if the weather holds, the stars align for available days, and the snow levels aren’t still beastly by the end of July (really slows one down). But this is my plan, always subject to adjustment. Who knows, I may just carry my skis all the way around?

*Mt. Rainier from above Panhandle Gap at sunrise*

Wonderland Trail Hike Prep 2021

April 06, 2021 by Willis Wall

This is an article I wrote for a Wonderland Trail online group, ranging from newbies to experienced hikers. You’ve done a ton of planning for your upcoming Wonderland trail hike, sorting itineraries, calculating mileage, figuring food caches, transportation to and from….lots to do. Now it’s time to think about your actual hike and your best chance for success. Following are things that have worked for me over the decades through trial and error. However, there are many factors that go into individual wants and needs so my advice is to keep an open mind, try things that look promising and if they work, incorporate these techniques or equipment choices into your own personal quiver. This is a process that continues for me to this day; I am constantly on the look out for better ways of doing things or equipment that may better serve my needs.

*Front and back packs used for a complete Wonderland thru hike; 10-12 lbs including food and water for a 3 day hike.*

WEIGHT: Many cite Ray Jardine’s book “Beyond Backpacking” (2000) as the birth of light weight hiking, but many of his techniques were present in his earlier book “The Pacific Crest Trail Hiker’s Handbook” (1992). The PCT book is what got me started on my journey to lighten up. Since then the outdoor industry has become a multi billion dollar one, and earlier cottage gear companies like Zpacks, Gossamer Gear and Enlightened Equipment have grown into full blown businesses. There are 330,000 members of Reddit r/ultralight community. Lots of information out there, yet every time I’m on the Wonderland the majority of backpackers are carrying loads in excess of 30 pounds; this is not a criticism, it is an observation. The Xtra small pack of a distressed hiker I assisted weighed 35 pounds, which was in excess of 1/3 her body weight.

THE BANK OF PAIN is something I refer to when it comes to adding a pound of weight to your pack. It will cost you, it’s a withdrawal. It takes energy to carry, and that pound increases stress on your muscles, ligaments and tendons. Consider the thousands of steps on the Wonderland and lifting and lowering this weight. If you take the pound out of your pack, you just made a deposit. You can hike further with less stress on the same amount of energy or hike the same distance with less energy expenditure.

*The ups and downs of the Wonderland Trail: NPS*

Consider the “big 4”….pack, pad, shelter and bag. Let’s go hog wild! 20 degree sleeping bag or quilt, lots of choices for 2 pounds or less. Minimum R4 value pad, let’s say 1.5 pounds. A one person 3 season shelter, 3 pounds or less. And finally, a pack with full suspension, say 2.5 pounds. 9 POUNDS. And it can certainly be lower, most times I hike with less than 5 pounds of equipment and cover all the bases. Lower weights mean I can do nicely with a sub 1 pound non suspension/bells and whistles pack. For comparison here is my lightest setup for a multi day hike without anticipation of severe weather, which would have me carrying a tent.

Pack: Zpacks custom (30L) 4.7 ozs//Bag: Nunatak 40 degree quilt 12 ozs//Pad: NeoAir XLite (L) 16 ozs//Shelter: Zpacks Pocket Tarp: 4 ozs with stakes/Borah Gear Cuben Bivy 4.7 ozs

Total: 41.4 ozs. (2.6 pounds)

My weights can change depending on season and expected conditions. For instance I have a 2 pound roomy eVent bivy or a 14.8 oz Plexamid tent. Sometimes I like to pack a NeoAir XTherm (1lb 4 ozs), especially if very cold ground or snow is expected. But we’re still talking 8 pounds or less for full kit. I’m not going to go into clothing, this is a very personal choice….but are you packing redundant items or unnecessary things like full on mountaineering OR Croc gaiters? I’ve never even worn wispy gaiters like Dirty Girls and on this established trail I can’t remember stopping but a few times to empty invasive rocks out of my footwear. In rain your feet are going to get wet, period. But what about hiking on snow you may ask? By the time most hikers are hitting the trail, spring snow pack will be consolidated and you’ll be sinking maybe 2 inches. Well traveled areas will have established boot pack and post holing will be a rare experience.

FOOTWEAR: Another personal choice, but foot problems have been the downfall of many hikers. When I used to run ultras there were two common things that forced people to DNF; foot problems and stomach problems. All my foot woes disappeared over 30 years ago when I ditched the boots and wore running shoes or trail runners. Never mind the study years ago that the Army conducted: 1 pound on the foot was equal to 5 pounds on the back. My problems with boots, besides blisters, were rashes that covered my feet right up to boot line and very sore pads if I had a long day. But what about ankle support? I’ve heard this for decades. Barring mechanical problems or other medical issues with your ankles, why do you need it? Footwear should not be a crutch for natural foot mechanics. Proprioception (feel of the ground under your feet) is very important as you eat up the miles. Your feet take inputs from the trail and soon enough you adapt to undulating terrain without conscious thought. I’ve never rolled an ankle, even under a heavy load (40 pounds carrying 10 days of food). I’ve used trail runners for all my off trail endeavors (rocks, scree, ‘schwacking etc), including all day snow hiking, although sometimes I wear waterproof socks if I’m in snow for many hours. One example of wearing gaiters would be late afternoon plunge stepping down the Muir Snowfield; conditions not likely found on the trail.

*Invo8 Arctic Claw 300 trail runners on the Muir snowfield*

The clothing and equipment I pack are essentially the same for any trip, the variables being how much food do I need to carry and how much water. It all boils down to this: critically review everything you are putting in your pack and on your person….the easiest way to lighten your load is not put stuff in your pack. There is a tendency for less experienced backpackers to “pack their fears.” If you are carrying a 35 pound pack and your big 4 weigh 9 pounds as in the example above, ask yourself where is that extra weight coming from? Most multi day hikers on the Wonderland cache food, so say 2 pounds per day for 4 days tops. There’s 17 pounds. With the exception of the Cowlitz Divide and perhaps North Puyallup to Mowich River (in case you don’t want to filter warm Golden Lake water) you don’t need to carry that much water. In 2012 I logged every year round water source (checking in September and October) and counted 121. If employing the tactic of drinking at the source, I usually have 1 liter or less on my person. Of course, this can be highly variable (my daughter drinks more than twice as much as I do on the trail) but you get my drift. Unlike desert hiking you will not need to be carrying a gallon or more on this trail. So 20 ozs of water equals 1.3 pounds. Still not up to 20 pounds yet. Unless you are hiking early season in a high snow year, you probably won’t need a GPS (assuming you have a map and basic compass). Snowshoes? No. Ice axe? Probably not (check with the park service for conditions, esp over Panhandle Gap, assuming you know how to use one). Rain Gear? Always, I consider this a safety issue, but do you really need a 3 layer GoreTex wonder mountaineering jacket? Do you need rain pants? (up to you, but think about it….I don’t carry them). Do you carry redundant clothing items like underwear and shirts that could be washed and dried on alternate days? MY PERSONAL GUAGE: If I put on my pack and don’t really notice it during the day, then that’s good for me. But that’s probably because I’ve never been over 18 pounds with a full load on the Wonderland. There’s no way I could pull off a 3 or 4 day trip today if I were carrying 35 pounds. But itinerary doesn’t matter, if you are carrying 20 pounds or less over 13 days, you will have so much more energy and time to enjoy these exquisite surroundings, not to mention the lessened wear and tear on your body.

*Stair training: 314 steps x 25 transits=4700’ vert*

TRAINING: If I could only do one thing to train for this trail, it would be stairs. Not running, biking or even hiking. It’s the downhills that will trash your legs more than anything else. Remember, it’s not just 22,000 feet of climbing, it’s 22,000 feet of stepping down/downhills. I have the opportunity at my current location to avail myself of an incline that has 314 steps. I’ve recently been going longer (I.e., 25 transits). 4 hours for less than 6 miles but over 4700 feet of climbing. It was the down stepping that made my legs sore for 3 days afterwards, not the uphill. The more you can condition your body, the more margin you will have; the difference between wow and suck factor.

Consider some PCT hikers over the past few years had difficulties when they had to bail….only using the Guthook app, they didn’t see access trails or roads and only knew the swathe before them. Luckily you really only need one map for the Wonderland, so I would advise carrying one even if you have all the electronic goodies. If you only have Guthook and your phone goes Tango Uniform, and you’re not familiar with the area, you may have a hard time figuring out your options in case of difficulties. Granted this is not a wilderness hike, you will see plenty of people along the way. But why put yourself at the mercy of other people’s opinions or advice due to lack of information?

Don’t worry about food weight: pack what you know you like and can digest throughout long days on the trail. Cook or no cook, it matters not if you look forward to eating it.

Essential tip: Desitin for chapped ass prevention, because chapped ass is one of the most annoying things to experience on the trail. Don’t ask me how I know.

Finally, I refer to my advice above: critically review everything you are putting in your pack or on your person… but this time in a different light. Don’t feel guilty about bringing pure comfort items, like a pillow or hard cover book or teddy bear if these things truly make your time on trail more delightful. It’s not just about the gram counting, because ultimately you are probably hiking the Wonderland because you love being outside and revel in the sights and smells. Some may read this and think to themselves, screw you buddy, I like my blank and blank and blanks! That leads me to my final thought: how one enjoys the outdoors is a personal decision and not subject to criticism, so it is important not to pass judgement on others just because they do it differently than yourself. Just keep your eyes and ears peeled for techniques that you may want to steal for yourselves.

*Downstream lenticular seen from Spray Park, Mt. Rainier*

Although available under the Wonderland Trail pulldown, everything I’ve mentioned plus much more is covered in this video. It was authored over 10 years ago and equipment choices have changed, but the philosophy holds true for me today. I can still pull off a 3 day Wonderland Trail hike in my mid 60’s. The last section is Wonderland Trail specific.

*A view from Rimrock Drive, Colorado National Monument*

Colorado National Monument 4/1-2/2021

April 03, 2021 by Willis Wall

I needed to take a trip to Fruita to pick up a spare tire for my Solis, which worked out wonderfully because I stayed for 2 days and explored Colorado National Monument. At first glance this park does not appear very large, and in fact I hiked almost the entire width twice. However, it sure packs a breathtaking palette and the crowds were thin. On the first day I chose the upper Liberty Cap Trail. At first I was underwhelmed; it was pleasant enough hiking through the Piñon trees and shrubs but vistas were flat. However, I stuck with it and was rewarded with expansive views to the Fruita valley and beyond. On the map it appeared that the trail wound around to access the Liberty Cap rock below, but I was unable to find it, even though my GPS showed me right on top of it; it would have taken me over a cliff. Surely an error on my part but there were a few people around the rock below and my loftier perch was expansive and solitary. My only problem these two days was dealing with the sun.

On the second day I parked at the lower trailhead for Monument Canyon. Soon after starting, the trail splits with the option of going to the right of the massive through Wedding Canyon, which I did. The huge formation to the left, which differentiates the Wedding and Monument Canyons, provided cool shade. Once I came to the area of Independence Monument I took a way trail around the base until I found myself on the other side, where I joined the Monument Canyon trail. It seems many day hikers do the trails to this point and return to the lower trailhead. I saw no one on the trail through Monument Canyon until I started the steep ascent to the upper trailhead on Rimrock Drive. By now the sun was beating down and despite slathering myself with sunscreen, I opted to use my neck buff to cover my ears, face and neck for the remainder of the day. I retraced my steps to Independence Monument and then opted right on the continuation of the Monument Canyon trail. This winds around the base past some homes and eventually rejoined the final portion of trail to the parking lot. I realized after arriving at my van that the heat and sun had taken a bit of toll as I sucked down two cans of soda water before taking a shower and changing clothes. I had a snack and departed at 5 PM for the 5 hour drive back to Colorado Springs.

Just driving into the monument from the West and/or East entrances provides astounding views, winding through hairpin turns and tunnels. There are plenty of places to stop and take in the views along the 23 mile Rimrock Drive, like Coke Ovens Overlook and Monument Canyon View. I liked my itinerary, hiking the upper Liberty Cap Trail first, then continuing on Rimrock Drive to the West entrance, stopping at the various points. This allowed a look-see over the canyons and formations from above. Day 2 provided an up close perspective, craning my neck to view the massive formations from their bases. This was indeed some of the most enjoyable hiking I’ve ever done.

*It’s not just about the rock; upper Liberty Cap trail, Colorado National Monument*

I captured portions of these hikes (as usual) with a GoPro Hero9. enjoy!