Camp Muir is one of those hikes that just needs to be done at least once. It lies at 10,188’ and is the main staging point for climbs on this side of the mountain. In the spring it attracts boarders and skiers, but when the lower elevation snow subsides it sports conga lines of guided parties trudging up the snowfield in large groups one step away from each other….which I call the RMIllipede (RMI is the main guiding outfit here). I’ve come here many times over the years and decided to incorporate the hike in an endurance trainer, sandwiched with two bike rides from Cougar Rock Campground to Paradise.

*Typical climbing group on the trek to Camp Muir*

I started my day with an early getup but slept a little longer due to light rain. Eventually I got on the bike in fog and climbed the 2400’ up to Paradise, also still encased in cloud. My bike excursions were purposefully planned early and late in the day to avoid the heavy traffic during peak times. After returning to the van I quickly packed up and drove up to Paradise to secure a parking spot, as the craziness of these times means that parking can sometimes fill up even on a Wednesday in the middle of the day. After food and equipment changes, I was ready to start the hike. Just a week or so prior I had skinned right from the lot for a ski tour, but after the record setting heat wave at the end of June most of the lower elevation snow was gone. Temperatures were cool in the still foggy surroundings and it wasn’t until above 7000’ that the views opened up. Wild flowers were springing up on the hillsides and the views towards the rock were sublime. For once I was the one doing the passing as the climbers are laden with big packs and kept together (the guided ones) in groups, moving slowly but steadily upwards.

Camp Muir itself is a bustling little “town”, especially when the guided groups are milling around outside of their accommodations. The public shelter was closed and tents were sprinkled around the area on the lee side of the wind. I spent some time getting my snack on and taking pictures before launching for the descent. I became reacquainted with slop running down the snowfield, looking like a drunken person with legs flailing and sliding every which way. Next to skiing, this is a funnest way to descend and very speedy. This climb involves 4800’ of elev gain and loss and I was glad to get back to the van and drive away from the parking lot madness, returning to my spot at Cougar Rock campground.

*Let the flower show begin! (trail to Pebble Creek)*

I admit, I had a moment of weakness. I took a hot shower, made a huge meal, sat back with a glass of wine as I watched something I had downloaded on NetFlix. My body was trying to convince my mind that maybe I didn’t need to do another bike ride and leave the comforts of home. But eventually I shamed myself back onto the bike as the hour approached 8 PM, telling myself that I could at least try it and just return if things weren’t going well. Much to my surprise my legs were ready to crank, and I set PRs for all the Strava segments on the climb. The evening traffic was sparse, the temperatures were just right for only wearing a jersey, and the sunlit peaks peeking through the trees made for the most enjoyable climb. Paradise was still foggy and by now few people were still hanging out. My descent into darkness involved pulling over for just one car; otherwise, the road was mine as I occupied the center. One of the best rides I’ve had here, for sure.

I love to mix disciplines and sandwiching Muir between these two bike rides gave me the endurance trainer I wanted with 9300’ of climb. Retirement is going well indeed!

*The Nisqually River from the bridge, climbing (bike) to Paradise*