Willis Wall's Views on the Wonderland Trail: Introduction and Overview

This is my third major project on the Wonderland; after hiking it 20 times I produced a DVD in 2006. In 2012 I timelapsed the entire trail, including the alternate route over Spray Park, and mapped all the backcountry campsites (these projects can still be viewed on this website: check links). Now in 2024, after finishing my 35th Wonderland transit and spending the last 40 years exploring Mt. Rainier National Park, I’ve combed through my extensive video and photo catalog to curate this series. This is not a how to: if the viewer is looking for itinerary planners and tips on getting permits, this is not the place. This series is to provide a more intimate look at the Wonderland through my camera’s lens. I have melded views from different years and seasons. I share some anecdotes and “views” along the way, and provide historical context. You will see pre 2006 flood footage and experience some of the changes I’ve seen over the past 40 years. I lean heavily on my footage from the past 4 seasons as the newer cameras are far superior to the first iterations of helmet cams. This is unique content that can only come from someone who has consistently roamed the mountain over decades; mountaineering, skiing, hiking and biking. Edited in 2.7K resolution. I hope you enjoy.

SECTIONS IN THE SERIES: 1. Intro and Longmire • 2. Indian Henry’s • 3. Tahoma Creek Suspension Bridge • 4. Emerald Ridge • 5. Puyallup Rivers/St. Andrews-Klapatche Parks • 6. Silver Forest/Golden Lakes • 7. Mowich Rivers/Mowich Lake • 8. Carbon River Environs • 9. Moraine Park/Mystic Lake/West Fork White River • 10. Sunrise/Skyscraper • 11. White River • 12. Summerland • 13. Panhandle Gap/Ohanapecosh Park • 14. Cowlitz Divide/Indian Bar • 15. Stevens Canyon • 16. Reflection Lakes • 17. Spray Park

1. Introduction and Longmire

A quick “who am I” and a look at Longmire, where I tend to start and end my Wonderland Trail hikes. Includes a bike tour across the river and over the Nisqually wooden suspension bridge, a flyby of the admin buildings and employee housing, a mention of Cougar Rock campground and scenes from varying times of year. Run time: 6:42

2. Indian Henry's Hunting Ground

Proceeding CW around the mountain from Longmire, Indian Henry’s has always been a break and snack stop on the ranger porch cabin for me. First I mention the disparity in distance/elevation stats today (with GPS devices) vice the historical of 93 miles/22,000’ of elevation gain/loss. I’ve thrown in a few bloopers from previous film outings plus a brief tour inside the cabin, offered to my daughter and myself in 2008. This part ends with some snow covered footage from October 30, 2023. Rated Mature due to a few mild cuss words. Run time: 5:37

3. Tahoma Creek Suspension Bridge

One of the iconic places in the park, the Tahoma Creek suspension bridge sways 80 feet above the river bed below. Note: although at first glance the final shots look like I used a drone, this is absolutely not true…they’re from a 360 camera at the end of a long pole. In other clips throughout the series you can espy the shadow of the pole. Run time: 5:36

4. Emerald Ridge

A highlight area of the trail at any time of year. See the lushness of spring flowers, the green of the summer meadows, the brown of late season and snow. Gaze down on the copper colored rocky terminal moraine of Tahoma Glacier and the “in your face” views of Glacier Island. Sublime! Run time: 8:24

5. Puyallup Rivers/St. Andrews-Klapatche Parks

The section between the South and North Puyallup rivers takes the hiker over some of the best views of the trail. See St. Andrews park in fall color glory, a frozen St. Andrews and Aurora lakes, and watch the glacier fed Puyallup rivers as raging torrents and cold calm. Run time: 7:35

6. Silver Forest/Golden Lakes

The introduction has me waxing unpoetic on the changes I’ve seen in Silver Forest over 40 years. This is another special area of the trail that evokes memories of all the times past I have transited here, including in the dark. Watch a bear scratching its back! My daughter joins in recounting a close encounter with a coyote at the Sunset Park patrol cabin. Run time: 8:30

7. Mowich Rivers/Mowich Lake

The Mowich Rivers require attention every year from the trail crews as the river channels wander to and fro over the flood plains. My introduction talks about aggradation and the dynamic environment of these glacial rivers in general, and documents pre 2006 flood views to present day. I pass the same bridge every year that spanned the South Mowich River, but now is slowly decomposing in the gravel of an empty flood plain. I’ve also included a tour of the Mowich Lake campground from 2012 that remains largely unchanged today. You can also check out the road to Mowich Lake on a rainy day in October; it will help you decide if you really want to start/end your hike or torture a family member or friend to meet you there. Run time: 18:39

8. Carbon River Environs

Perhaps surpassing the Mowich Rivers in its wandering, the Carbon River won the battle with the Carbon River Road, washing out sections over the years but putting the last nail in the coffin with the 2006 flood. It was also responsible for permanently rerouting the Wonderland to the lower Carbon River crossing for the Northern Loop Trail. I talk about this in the introduction, and provide snippets of video of the now washed out trail and driving the Carbon River road. Rated Mature due to one cuss word as I’m navigating the convoluted flood plain in 2022. Run time: 18:31

9. Moraine Park/Mystic/West Fork White River

Explore the West Fork of the White River, where the channel was gouged out by the massive flood event of 2006 and left it 40 feet below the intersecting trail. One passes an area where trees were covered with sediment from the West Fork and died, then down you go. But before that I show some crossings of Dick Creek and take you through Moraine Park, then on to Mystic Lake, ending with the always furious Winthrop Creek, where in 2007 I surprised a bear who huffed at me behind some trees, then was off to cross the creek..watch him leap! Run time: 12:03

10. Sunrise/Skyscraper Pass

I introduce this section with a mention of the now defunct Sunshine Point campground, where a good portion of it that housed the facilities was washed away in 2006. Now it’s like visiting a ghost town in the Rockies. I have some perfect shadow video on the Wonderland out of Sunrise because I’ve departed this area so many times early morning with the sun at my back. There’s a short clip of me in the snack bar back in September 2007, but of late (since Covid) the full service kitchen has been shut down or hit or miss, so don’t count on that greasy cheeseburger and fries! See flowering meadows, mountain goat, smoky skies and hear the stress in my voice as I transit Skyscraper Pass in the evening with miles to go. A highlight, I managed to capture the perfect moment on Skyscraper of autumn alpenglow (photos) in the meadows, something I had never seen before then nor since. Run time: 8:52

11. White River

My introduction talks about the old Wonderland Trail in this area prior to 2004; consider this a teaser. I provide some bike footage of the Sunrise Park road and White River which should give the viewer an appreciation for the crews that have to clean up the park before it opens. You can also see inside the now closed cabin at White River, and see why the park sometimes posts warnings for high flow on the glacial rivers. Run time: 9:43

12. Summerland

I’ve done the Wonderland 35 times, but I’ve been to Summerland many more times than that. I used to do early season updates on conditions at Panhandle Gap, and even today I tend to be the first one there when the road opens, either hiking or skiing or both. This section contains footage from opening season to probably the last one through there, and everything in between. Witness the iconic old notched bridge, still in use in 2005 but now floundering in a ravine. See Summerland in the middle of February 2015. Check out the snow levels on the shelter in May. See the bear tracks on virgin snow from a brute that probably just came out of hibernation. See the bubbling creek in 3 seasons. And revel in the flowers that adorn the hillside where the switchbacks are. I open this section with a Willis Wall Short called “Jaunt to Summerland” traveling from White River. A truly special place. Run time: 13:09

13. Panhandle Gap/Ohanapecosh Park

Panhandle Gap is the highest spot on the Wonderland Trail, at just under 6800’. It usually has some snow in July and sometimes well into August, so is of some concern to prospective hikers. After my introduction, you will see Gap crossings in all conditions…completely snow covered early season with no boot track (with specific footage focused on my feet), summer season snow, right after the first snow of the season, and completely bare. I even glissade the Gap. Then on to Ohanapecosh Park with transits at different times of the year, including a clip taken above the cloud deck at night with a full moon; a truly spectacular sight. Oh, and there’s the resident goat herd. Run time: 15:29

14. Cowlitz Divide/Indian Bar

See a fiery mishap at Indian Bar, a snowy first access in 2013, a few “how the river wanders” sequences, and a trip over the Cowlitz Divide. I snuck in a couple of shots at Indian Bar of my first Wonderland hike in 1987, stylin’ in my short shorts and 50 pound pack. Just another spectacular part of the trail sporting one of the best views of the mountain in the entire park. Run time: 9:35

15. Stevens Canyon

The one part of the trail where you can hear constant road noise, while also hosting one of the problem areas of the trail: the recurring washout. I cover this in the introduction, providing video from 2008, 2013 and 2023 to give the viewer a handle on what to expect. This section starts at Nickel Creek, which is only .8 miles from Box Canyon. Run time: 14:44

16. Reflection Lakes

If proceeding CW on the Wonderland to Longmire, the climb out of Stevens Canyon to Reflection Lakes will be your last one. Be prepared for the shock of throngs of people, as the Wonderland actually goes along the road for a bit; witness the ending video. However, Reflection Lakes can be an intimate spot if transiting it during off times, especially in off season. My best photos here have not been of a reflecting mountain, but reflections in the lake looking towards sunrise or moonrise. Run time: 4:18

17. Spray Park

In the introduction I talk about this alternate route of the Wonderland and how the designation of Mt. Rainier National Park as a National Historic Landmark District in 1997 affects trail crews in bridge building. The meat of this section is video I recorded transiting Spray Park in July during wildflower season; the viewer can see typical snow covered sections at that time of year. Of course, I also provide shots of Spray Park during other times of year. Run time: 9:53