Last year my daughter and I did a loop starting at Mineral King with a portion of it on the High Sierra Trail. This year we returned to cover the whole trail starting at Crescent Meadow with a carry over (after tagging the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,495’) to the Whitney Portal. This video provides an excellent background on the construction and history of the High Sierra Trail. At the end of this post there is a video of the Whitney climb itself.

*The trail can be seen cut into the hillsides behind us*

Our itinerary was probably typical for hiking this section, or at least close to it. After securing our permit the day before our hike (necessitating covering the serpentine road to Crescent Meadow), we struck out early on August 7 from Crescent Meadow. There was an active search still in progress for a missing hiker who, as of this writing, unfortunately hasn’t been found. Our original plan was to do an out and back, carrying 8 days of food, making for a 120 mile trip. This would change, TBD later. With heavy packs schlepping two bear cans, we wanted to make it to Big Hamilton Lake for the first night so bypassed Bear Paw at 11.5 miles. This is a spectacular section of the trail, climbing higher into the towering granite surroundings. The trail has been cut into the stone slopes, epitomized by the section around Hamilton Gorge. This was at first spanned by a suspension bridge, the remnants of which can be seen scattered in the gorge, wiped out by an avalanche soon after it was constructed. On the climb to Hamilton Lake, one of our favorite spots is a small pool of water that cascades over polished rock out of sight. An excellent place to take a break and replenish water. My daughter and I are used to hiking in the PNW, where campsites are specified by site number, at least in a park like Mt. Rainier. On this trek we got used to just laying out the tent on any available non vegetated spot. At least Hamilton had an established loo, one of only a few we encountered. It baffled us why Sequoia NP does not have a solar or pit toilet in all the established camping areas, especially considering the high usage and the trend towards even more people partaking of the park(s). Essentially you have hundreds of people over a week having to scope out appropriate spots to try and dig a cat hole, very hard to do properly with the rocky soil available. This is a problem that really must be addressed if we don’t want to have human excrement under every rock; concentrate into one area. But enough of my fecal fecundity…Hamilton Lake was pleasant enough as an overnight spot, making for a 17 mile day.

*The refreshing pool below Hamilton Lake*

Day 2 had us leaving Hamilton Lake early to avoid the blazing sun on the climb up to Precipice Lake, something that knackered us on last year’s trip. It can get very hot on some of these climbs with the sun reflecting off the light colored granite. We enjoyed the changing views down to the lake as we climbed with the sun hitting the adjacent peaks and reflecting in the lake. Arriving at Precipice Lake is a delight and called for a long break for soaking feet and eating. Being the first ones there, we occupied the primo spot and lingered for quite a while. Upon leaving my daughter affixed her umbrella to her pack to mitigate the effects of the now blazing sun, a very effective strategy. The climb to Kaweah Gap was pleasant and, after taking in the views of the Big Arroyo, we descended into the valley. Our original plan was to transit the Chagoopa Plateau and camp at Moraine Lake, but when we were enjoying the terrain of the Chagoopa we came across a perfect camping spot at 10,500’ with ready access to water and decided to turn in early. We knew we could make good time on the descent the following day so enjoyed our solitary camp, settling down well before dark. Of note, the star show was incredible with the Milky Way visible across the entire night sky.

Day 3 After an early get up we practically ran down to the junction past Moraine Lake, making excellent time. As I perused my photos from this day, I only took a few. We descended into the Kern Valley and a very hot afternoon was spent doing the gradual climb up the valley through the burn zone from last year. That climb bordered on miserable in the unshaded heat. By the time we reached our spot for the night at Junction Meadow, we had only climbed about 1600’ but covered 20 miles; we were ready for a break.

Day 4 (14 miles/4200’) was a positioning day; hike to Guitar Lake for an early getup to climb Whitney. Early for us that is, some get up so as to be on top at sunrise. We just wanted to get the switchbacks done (10) before the junction to the spur trail to the summit. Now for that “TBD” earlier: during the evening we were discussing my daughter’s increasing blister problem on one foot and texted my wife via InReach as to the possibility of a ride from the portal back to our vehicle. As it turns out, transportation was available so we decided to go for it. One benefit was that we could hike the entire trail to its end at Whitney Portal. One drawback was that we needed to pack up and lug all our stuff to the junction at 13,500’. Guitar Lake is another camp spot without established sites, but we were able to find a fairly level spot below some other tents. Not sure what some late comers did for their setup that evening as everything seemed to be taken on both sides of the lake and campers are not supposed to set up on any vegetation. We were able to establish camp and eat before dark and settled in for our 3 AM alarm.

*Near Forester Pass on our way to Guitar Lake*

*Timberline Lake with Whitney in the background*

Day 5 we were up at 3 and on the trail by 3:45. The first part was of course in the dark, but it didn’t take long before the predawn light was enough to see the loftiness of our ascent. Views towards the lakes below gradually became backlit by the rising sun illuminating the peaks beyond, making for a grand spectacle. Without troubles we arrived at the junction for the spur trail to the summit, where we dropped our packs and bear cans like most others. I donned my daughters pack and carried our water for the summit out and back. It seems our timing was excellent in that the earlier risers were coming down, and the day hikers were behind us. We enjoyed a fairly uncrowded summit, perhaps no more than 10 people or so the entire time we were there. The summit block is fairly flat and we wandered around to take in the 360 degree views. There is a summit hut that was constructed in 1909 with a warning for hikers not to take shelter there during lightning storms. We signed the summit register and started back for the junction, but only after my daughter discovered we had cell service; she FaceTimed my wife so she could also see some summit views. Others also checked in when they discovered we had service. Lots of day hikers were now making their way for the summit as we descended. Back at the junction, we loaded up, filtered some more water we had packed, and made our way down the 99 switchbacks on the other side. Our goal was to stop at Outpost Camp for the night, 3.5 miles from Whitney Portal. That way we could get up early enough to get some breakfast and clean up before pickup the following day. It was on this segment that my daughter was glad we had arranged for transportation because her blisters were only getting worse; putting in another 3 days and 60 miles would not have pegged her fun meter, and by association, mine either. As we neared Outpost I forged ahead to set up camp so she could just attend to her feet when she got there. Harking back to my comment about lack of latrines at these camps, I discovered 3 poop bags people had left in the bushes near one of the available spots. It’s only going to get worse. With plenty of time, we cleaned up and made dinner, again in the tent before dark.

*Rugged terrain on the spur trail to the summit of Whitney*

*Negotiating the 99 switchbacks above Trail Camp*

Our last day was just descending the rest of the way to Whitney Portal (8300’), arriving shortly after the general store opened so we could enjoy breakfast and clean up for the long ride back to the vehicle at Crescent Meadow. Most of the day hikers had already departed from the portal, many passing by our camp spot during the early dark hours. It was very quiet and peaceful there at 8 AM. It took most of the day to arrive at Crescent Meadow, and we still had 1.5 hours from there to our hotel for the night. None of this was anything to complain about after such a spectacular trip and my daughter’s feet were already on the mend. We felt fortunate indeed to enjoy one of the Sierra’s classic hikes with splendid conditions.

*Early light on the descent from Outpost Camp to the Whitney Portal*

*A welcome sign after hiking the High Sierra Trail*

A shoulder mounted camera captures the essence of our climb from Guitar Lake to the summit.