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Mt. Rainier from the Kautz Creek Trail

Mt. Rainier Western Loop

August 10, 2024 by Willis Wall

Mt. Rainier’s Western Loop: 35 miles/8300’ elev

Each year I do an excursion to pummel my downhill legs prior to a 3 day Wonderland Trail hike. Last year that was the Northern Loop Trail, which was especially hard because I had done no hiking the month prior. That 38 miles with 9800’ of elevation gain was a tough one, taking me 18 hours to finish. It did the trick though, and my method has proven itself over many years. Of course, this is assuming one has an excellent fitness base to work from. NOTE: A video chronicle is at the end of this post.

This year I decided on a slightly easier hike, that being the Western Loop in Mt. Rainier National Park. Now, the Western Loop is not an official or even unofficial trek in the park, it was something I came up with in 2016 to complement other loop hikes. That blog, titled “How to Experience Mt. Rainier in Short Segments”, was written to aid hikers in dealing with only walk up permits that year. It was my aim to describe various hikes around the park where one could experience the best parts of the Wonderland, and more.

Because the Western Loop involves using the West Side Road for the return trip, the aim of the hike is to cover the glorious western part of the trail, one of the loveliest sections and most remote, during the daylight hours and utilizing the road for a relatively fast return. However, stashing a bike is almost mandatory, as the last 6 miles involve 3 more miles on the West Side Road and 3 miles on the main drag to return to the starting point, Kautz Creek trailhead. It works, however, and sometimes you just have to think out of the box.

Cloud Sea in the lowlands

On August 6th I stashed my bike at the parking area of the West Side Road, then drove to the Kautz Creek trailhead to begin my hike at 5:30 AM. This trail is 5.7 miles, intersecting the Wonderland Trail at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground. From there I proceeded CW over Emerald Ridge and St. Andrews Park, ending this portion of the trip at the North Puyallup camp.

Lillies on the Kautz Creek Trail

Let the return phase begin; I hiked the 3 mile North Puyallup Trail to gain the West Side Road, then trotted the road (utilizing the shortcut to Round Pass via the Round Pass Trail) to the parking area where my bike was stashed…this road walking phase was 9 miles. Then it was coasting 3 miles down the West Side Road to the intersection with the Longmire/Paradise road and a mild 3 mile ride back to my vehicle. All in all I traveled 35 miles over 16 hours to complete the loop. Consider that my trail hiking was 11 hours, so the majority of my day was spent reveling in the western part of the park. I even took well over an hour at St. Andrews Lake relaxing and talking to other hikers, and leisurely hiked the last bit from St. Andrews Lake to North Puyallup engaged in lively conversation with hiker Julia.

“The Sign” above Klapatche Park, Mt. Rainier

As I write this it is 4 days later; I am still sore. This is a good thing, as I know the legs will be prepared for multiple days of 8000’ of elevation gain and loss. These “shock” sessions really work. One must consider that I have an extensive cycling base (I recently cycled across the Pyrenees) and my hiking base is OK, having hiked 6 days on the GR10. This difficult day of hiking was the last phase of my preparations.

August 10, 2024 /Willis Wall
mt rainier western loop, mt rainier west side road, hiking the wonderland trail

Star trails over Rainier from the Colonnade

Mt. Rainier: The Colonnade

October 22, 2023 by Willis Wall

Pristine weather was with us on Wednesday and Thursday (October 18-19, 2023) so I planned on another bike/hike foray into the park, visiting one of my favorite places: The Colonnade. At this point all the campgrounds were closed in the park so I secured a cross country permit at Longmire and left my van there, biking to the end of the West Side Road at Klapatche Point.

Golden hour on the Colonnade

Catching the glow

After securing the bike, it was back to earthly bipedal action and hiking the North Puyallup Trail (which used to be the road until 1987) to the intersection with the Wonderland, then departing in the vicinity of Sunset Park/Silver Forest and making my way to the Colonnade. There is a trail which I lost a few times in the lower sections, but once on the ridge proper it is patently obvious. In 2016 I did this trip and bivied at the old lookout site at 6,700’. This time I spotted a knoll with an unobstructed view of the mountain and its flanks and determined that would be an excellent spot for sunset. Despite blustery winds most of the afternoon and night, the temperatures were moderate and I enjoyed a mesmerizing star show above while a GoPro captured sunset and star trails.

Alpenglow on Rainier, October 18, 2023

I snoozed the next morning until the sun hit my bivy, as this was a relaxed trip and more in line for soaking in the environment than pumping out an endurance event. Once again my shadow was before me as I reversed the jaunt to my bike and pedaled back to Longmire, easier with less elevation gain than the day before. Round trip stats: 53 miles/7,100’ elev. This was an immersive trip, in complete solitude. It’s hard to explain what this infusion of sights and smells and toil does for one’s soul; maybe the video and pics will help impart some of this to you, dear reader, which is the purpose of this site.

October 22, 2023 /Willis Wall
mt rainier off trail, mt rainier west side road, mt rainier the colonnade

St. Andrews Lake in October

Rainier West Mini Loop

October 05, 2023 by Willis Wall

Glorious fall weather was with us, so I was off to the park and secured a site in Cougar Rock Campground for 5 nights right up to closing day. Out of 6 days I was active for 4, with the other two involving wandering down to Longmire for coffee and WiFi. The first day (Tuesday, Oct 3) I did a nice afternoon ride up to Paradise and Reflection Lake as a warmup. The second day (Oct 4), I rode to the West Side road and parked at the trail to South Puyallup Camp. As I was planning on riding RIMROBOD on the coming Saturday, I had my gravel bike with me (Salsa Cutthroat) vice my usual vintage mountain bike. My only concern was the road tires I had on it but the West Side Road is gentle enough to not be a problem. I then proceeded on foot past South Puyallup camp to St. Andrews Park/Lake, Klapatche Park, then the St. Andrews Trail to the West side road which I trotted to regain my bike, returning to Cougar Rock. On this trip I concentrated on taking in as much nuance as I could, taking macro shots of the plethora of fungi, reveling in the colorful understory, spending over an hour at St. Andrews Lake, completely alone (only saw 4 people this entire trip), availing myself of the 4 cameras I packed for various video shots....I tried not to be overwhelmed by the olfactory overload of fall on the hill, but I failed; that's a good thing! I could barely get myself moving again from such an idyllic spot (St. Andrews Lake), but made my way to Klapatche Park, where there was one other person who kept to himself. Aurora Lake was refilled by the recent rains, and I got an alternate (maybe better?) shot of the mountain reflected in a tarn as I traveled the St Andrews trail, trotting the nice grade to the West Side Road, where my ambulation continued until I regained my bike. After the short climb to Round Pass, the fall overload continued (even on the main road back to Cougar Rock). I called this a "Rainier West Mini Loop." Of course, one could shorten this trip by parking at the end of the West Side Road, but where’s the fun in that? Todays stats: 42 miles (13 hiking)/5800' elev. I’ve done some endurance type trips this season and it was a pleasure to shift gears and just relax.

Tarn reflection near Klapatche Park

Salsa tackles the West Side Road

Mountain from the West Side Road, Mt. Rainier

Lots of fungus in October on the trail

Fall color in St. Andrews Park, Mt. Rainier

The Puyallup formations from St. Andrews Park

Broadleaf show’s a startin’

October 05, 2023 /Willis Wall
st andrews park, st andrews lake mt rainier, klapatche park, mt rainier west side road

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