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Wonderland trail sign near Klapatche Park

Wonderland Trail Hike Prep 2025

May 20, 2025 by Stephen Burgess

This year could be a big one for me, especially in the quest to finish Wonderland Trail hike #40. As I am currently up to #37, I obviously have to do 3 this year to end on 40. One of the big complications in 2025 for most hikers is the closure of highway 165 into the Carbon River and Mowich Lake areas, leaving the 57 mile expanse of the trail on the west side with few options for access, those being the Longmire area and Sunrise. Because I usually do the Wonderland in 3 days, this does not affect my itineraries, which usually take advantage of White River and Mowich Lake for overnights. With no drive in access to Mowich Lake, there should be no problem getting a walkup permit for that one night as the whole shebang will be treated as a backcountry camp. So in sum I will be planning on three 3-day transits; early season, mid season and late season, which will probably work out to be July, August and September.

Love my endurance challenges: Strava stats for RIMROBOD cycle trip in October 2023 (click box for link)

Since I have the experience of doing over 30 three day trips, most of my gear and prep is pretty much dialed in (link to my 2021 fastpack kit article). Despite last year’s transits involving some nasty weather, I will try to plan on a good weather window for each of these trips (I’m retired so very flexible in when I can hike). However, the fact that I’m retired also means I’m kinda old, 70 this year. There’s a very important aspect of my fitness that I need to address, something I have neglected over decades: mobility and flexibility.

I’ve always been an endurance hound, be it on foot or on a bike. For all these years since my 40’s I prioritized endurance training with mere nods to that other stuff, like strength, flexibility and mobility; no time ‘cause I gotta run on a treadmill for 6 hours. In fact I have suffered from mild lower back pain for decades, especially after running. I tried to address this 5 years ago with doctor sanctioned PT, which revealed that my hip flexibility was atrocious, and the supporting muscles were weak. That helped a bit, but after PT I was not diligent in keeping up the exercises and stretching so basically was back to square one. My overall flexibility was so poor, I had a hard time getting up from sitting on the floor. I could not sit cross legged, like not even close; if I didn’t use hand support, I would topple over backwards. I’ve never sprained an ankle, but my ankle flexion was atrocious. Notice that the word “atrocious” slips from my typing fingertips fairly often, but I’ve always told myself that I am a naturally inflexible person and there’s nothing I can do about it.

Working on flexibility

Turning 70 had me thinking a bit; if I didn’t address these mobility and flexibility issues at this relatively ripe age, I would certainly pay the piper in my 80’s. Lack of mobility rears its ugly head all the time in everyday life, like holding two drinks after a coffee run and trying to get out of the car. Bending over to put on socks or shoes. Getting a foot up on a small ledge on the first move climbing Unicorn Peak, which my lead partner did effortlessly. Squatting next to my grandson who’s fascinated by tiny ants on the ground, or sitting next to him ON THE FLOOR as he does puzzles or plays with trucks or when he climbs on me. “Dude, you better do something about it.”

Leg and hip work have helped my sprinting on the bike (taking the green jersey on Zwift’s Sasquatch Sprint)

So some 5 or 6 months ago I began the painful process of addressing these issues. I am learning that what I once thought was impossible, I can in fact address with training. My mobility has improved, I am getting stronger (especially in the core), and my flexibility is improving, albeit at a slow pace. I have turned the corner from ignoring these issues to embracing the process of fixing them. And fixing them is now on equal footing with endurance training, which now is mostly cycling. However, many of the mobility routines are close to an hour long and have my heart rate up there like going on a run. The cycling keeps my aerobic capability tuned up, plus the mobility work has given me more glute strength (a key component in cycling and trekking). I already notice an improvement in climbing and sprinting on the bike. Combined with gains in shoulder, leg, back and core work, my back pain has disappeared. My walking gait has changed for the better, to the point where I sometimes I feel like I’m floating along the ground. I fully expect that my fastpacking legs will be much improved this year. I have no problems with getting up from the floor (still gotta use my hands), and my flexibility has improved dramatically; I am almost to the point of a normal person! I also realize I have years to go in the process.

Floor time mobility training eases floor time with the grandson

OK, I am not physically gifted, my VO2 Max is genetically average, my body is not flexible etc. I have blogged about his before, but it bears repeating here. 1) I am lucky to have good mechanics and essentially no limitations in what I can do or train for. Many people my age are dealing with arthritis, knee problems, disk problems, you name it. 2) I have been consistent in physical activity since my 30’s, and even more so now that I’m retired. This consistency is key in maintaining a base fitness level, allowing me to switch focus like trotting the trail or skiing with minimal extra training. 3) I have a mental aptitude for suffering, along with much experience in the doing. A 3 day wonderland trail hike has been a staple for me for decades, and I will continue cranking them out as long as I am able. 4) I have experience in fastpacking, mountaineering, trail ultra running, scrambling, backpacking and skiing. 5) I am constantly looking for ways to improve my craft, be it training or equipment. 6) Familiarity: I know the Wonderland Trail intimately, along with Mt. Rainier National Park in general, and am still exploring. IF you consider all of the above, it’s no stretch to understand how a completely average person like myself can still fastback the Wonderland in 3 days at age 70 and beyond.

Beyond Clothing Alpha Aura jacket: Dungeness Spit, February 27

Equipment: my wife teases me; “Is that the jacket that is only good for 50 degrees with light rain?” Yes, I have a lot of gear, and I have tested and used it all in an ongoing process. This year will see few changes in the kit, but I will highlight one piece of gear: the Beyond Alpha Aura jacket. Alpha Direct fleece is a marvelous textile, packing an incredible amount of warmth in a light weight package. I have a Timmermade pullover made out of this and it is a great piece of kit, but the problem with Alpha Direct is the open weave; it’s fantastic in dumping heat and moving moisture when you’re workin’ up a sweat, but the wind will cut right through it. The weave is delicate, so an errant branch or squeezing under a blowdown can easily tear the fabric. It doesn’t take kindly to pack strap wear. It does shine for warmth under a light wind shirt or other garment, and excels on its own as a warm layer that breathes. Now the Beyond jacket isn’t the lightest, it has some extras on it that the Timmermade pullover omits: a full front zipper and two zippered side pockets. The thing that makes this jacket so utile is the simple addition of 20 denier ripstop paneling over the hood and shoulders, allowing this piece to be worn with a pack with much less worry of damaging the fabric. On April 17th of this year I packed this jacket on a hike to Camp Muir (10,188’). The day was warm enough for me to have two layers on top, a hooded sun shirt and an OR Ferrosi jacket. That was until about 8,000’ when a cold biting wind hit. I stopped and put on the Beyond Alpha under the Ferrosi shell and pulled up the hood. It was amazing how much warmer I felt for the remaining climb to above 10,000’. This simple piece of kit will negate me having to carry a puffy on the Wonderland: sun shirt, Aura Jacket, wind shirt and rain jacket will do the trick, both for moving and static activities like enjoying the view, eating or even taking a quick nap. It still works when wet and dries out fast. My rain protection is a proven piece from last year, the Timmermade Megazip Silpoly pullover. Silpoly is a non breathable fabric and totally waterproof. The beauty of this piece is the ability to vent, with full side zips (bottom hem to end of sleeve) and a quarter front zip. Ventilation is key for mitigation of internal moisture buildup, and these features have been validated in constant rain and drizzle on the Wonderland last year over multiple days.

I’ve been using bivies for decades: Kennedy Glacier, early 90’s

Timmermade Megazip Silpoly pullover on Wonderland Trail hike #37

For sleep gear I choose from multiple setups, but usually gravitate to a bivy bag, a 40 degree Nunatak quilt (12 ozs), and a NeoAir Xlite NXT short pad (12 ozs). If I’m using my Borah Gear bivy (5 ozs) I will carry a zpacks pocket tarp with stakes (4 ozs). My other choices may include a custom Borah Gear WPB bivy (9 ozs) or a more substantial OR Helium bivy (1 lb).

Alternate choices for a sleeping bag are a Nunatak Nova Insulated 50 degree bivy (1 lb) or even a Feathered Friends 35 degree Rock Wren (1.5 lbs) which allows me to walk around and poke my arms out if need be. I’ll be using my Durston Wapta 30 pack and Durston Iceline poles, both proven in last year’s various sojourns.

Feathered Friends 35 degree Rock Wrens: still viable after 16 years

In 1999 I did a 36 hour Wonderland with practically nothing: a hydration pack with enough room for some rain gear and food. I stopped once for some sleep at Ipsut Creek on a picnic table, wearing the rain gear. After 3 or so hours I was cold enough to get up at 4 AM and finish the hike/trot. I was so tired leaving Indian Henry’s for the final stretch to Longmire that I was hallucinating. I’m wiser now, and were I to attempt a similar itinerary I would bring a better rest kit. Here’s what I would call my “extreme” sleep setup: a 3/4 length 1/8” closed cell foam pad (3 ozs), a MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) bag liner as a bivy (3 ozs) with that zpacks 3 oz. tarp. I would sleep in just my clothes if the temps were favorable, but I could add my Timmermade custom alpha direct bag liner as a pseudo quilt for another 7 ozs. Total sleep kit weight: 9 ozs without the bag liner, 1 pound with. Were I to consider this option, I would have to be in excellent fastpacking shape, with at least one Northern Loop Trail and one Wonderland under my belt, plus longer daylight hours, which would point to a July trip with a fine weather forecast involving 20 hour moving days. Very optimistic, but an example of how light one can go if you have the skills, legs and mindset.

Durston Wapta 30 pack on Wonderland Trail hike #36

Willis Wall on Wonderland Trail hike #1: 1987

Another benefit of doing a 3 day Wonderland is the food carry. The loss of Mowich Lake as a food cache point is making hikers rethink packing food. That 57 mile stretch could necessitate upwards of a week (or more) of food carry, depending on one’s itinerary. I’m only carrying for 3 days anyway so it has no impact on my logistics. Bottom line, even with poor weather, my total pack weight is always under 15 pounds (that includes food and 1 liter of water). This low weight is a primary factor in my ability to cover long distances per day, usually about 30-35 miles. I have done a few 40+ mile days, those approaching 20 hours on my feet vice a usual 15-17. 15-17 hour days include rest stops and leave plenty of time for sleep.

Things have changed in the park since I moved here in 1983: closure of the West Side Road to non park vehicles in 1992, closure of the Carbon River road to Ipsut Creek in 2006 (along with the loss of Sunshine Point campground), increased visitation leading to lotteries and timed entries, then there’s the latest loss of access to Mowich Lake and Carbon River. But one thing hasn’t changed much, and that’s the Wonderland Trail. Sure, it seems every year there is a reroute due to wandering rivers, but otherwise it’s much the same as 40 years ago. People experience the difficulty of getting permits, but consider that the number of backcountry campsites is essentially unchanged, it’s just that so many more people are trying to get out there. And with luck and work, there will be Willis Wall doing the Wonderland for many years to come; aiming for 50? Why not.

May 20, 2025 /Stephen Burgess
wonderland trail prep, wonderland trail, wonderland trail fastpack
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