Mt. Rainier Circumnavigation CCW (with deviations)

This is a repeat post from my 68/35 blog which I deem relevant to this overall blog

Yes, the Wonderland Trail encircles Mt. Rainier. This proposed circumnavigation route borrows elements from my Grand Tour and utilizes the Wonderland during this circumnavigation, but incorporates deviations/off trail segments that will depart the Wonderland and venture into areas not seen by a traditional Wonderland circuit. Starting from Longmire, Deviation 1 (D1) will proceed up the Eagle Peak trail and transit the Tatoosh range to exit at the Snow Lake trail. D2 is a possible deviation that would depart the Wonderland on the Cowlitz Divide and skirt the Wilson and Ohanapecosh Glaciers above Ohanapecosh Park to rejoin the Wonderland at Panhandle Gap. I have not explored this route yet. After departing Summerland, the route proceeds over Goat Island Mountain to White River, then departs the Emmons Moraine Trail to proceed cross country on the left side of the White River to descend to Glacier Basin. There is a cross country route from the area of Second Burroughs to arrive at Skyscraper Pass, then to Berkeley Park and the Northern Loop Trail to Windy Gap (if not climbing Sluiskin Mountain). From Windy Gap the route ascends over Crescent Gap, through the Elysian Fields and exiting in Moraine Park. An alternate plan is to break off before Windy Gap to climb Sluiskin Mtn Squaw, then drop into Vernal Park and over Old Desolate, avoiding the Elysian Fields altogether. Another unexplored option is crossing the Carbon Glacier and climbing to Seattle Park (D6), a route that was used for almost 20 years in the earliest iterations of the Wonderland Trail. Rejoining the trail in Spray Park, I would then proceed over Knapsack Pass for a short distance before climbing to the ridge (right) above Mowich Lake (towards Castle Peak), then back on the Wonderland all the way to the North Puyallup Camp.

An earlier trip climbing out of the Elysian fields towards Old Desolate (D5 alt)

Bypassing the climb to Klapatche Park, I will proceed via the North Puyallup Trail to Klapatche Point on the West Side Road, run the road until hopping on the St. Andrews Creek Trail, climb out of Klapatche Park to St. Andrews Lake and exit the Wonderland to circle around Andrew Benchmark to rejoin the trail. With just a few deviations to go, I’ll take the Mirror Lakes Trail to Pyramid Park, transit the park and exit back to the Wonderland via the Fishers Hornpipe drainage. The last deviation (D10) will see me descending to Longmire via the Rampart Ridge Trail to complete the circumnavigation.

Ridge above Mowich Lake, looking towards Castle Peak (D7)

Pyramid Park (D9)

I don’t know how much extra mileage and elevation this route will entail; I estimate maybe 120 miles+ and an additional 5-10,000’ in elevation. The packing for this trip will be significantly different from a traditional Wonderland fastpack, as I’ll be staying in cross country zones and will be carrying significantly more food and equipment. I’ll figure it out though and look forward to this challenge. What shall I call it though?

Cross country terrain between Wahpenayo and Lane peaks (Tatoosh traverse)

A Holiday Music Collection

I’ve been accused of writing off kilter music, but when it comes to holiday arrangements I’ve kept things pretty “normal.” There’s snow outside my window so I assembled some of these arrangements for aural entertainment. I’ll start with showcasing the vocal talents of Darrell Dodge, who did a bang up job on this arrangement of “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas.”

With the exception of practicing over 6 months for a college Incubus band reunion (plus big band ensemble) many moons ago, I really haven’t touched my horn since 1978. However, I did pull out the flugelhorn in 2013 and managed (after many takes) to do this short arrangement of “Let it Snow.”

Here’s a trio arrangement of “Blue Christmas” from 2016.

I got my big band on for this instrumental arrangement of “White Christmas.”

And finally, for those who are thinking I’m pretty “normal”, there’s this piano interpretation of “We Wish You a Merry Christmas.”

Willis Wall 2022 Holiday Video

Another year of good fortune, good friends and good health is coming to an end. It’s hard to cram epic spring skiing, peak bagging, hiking, Kilimanjaro and cycling into 3 minutes, but I did. I hope the coming year sees good health to readers…Happy Holidays!

Alpenglow

noun ‘al˙ pen˙ glow: a reddish glow seen near sunset or sunrise on the summits of mountains (Merriam-Webster dictionary)

(The following is from https://www.phenomena.org/atmospheric/alpenglow/) It is important to note that there are some discrepancies in books and internet sources on how alpenglow occurs and what it is. Some sources state that it is a result of direct light from the sun that is hidden behind the horizon. Other sources [state] that it is caused by indirect light that has been reflected off of atmosphere and other particles.

Mt. Rainier alpenglow from Eagle’s Roost

Direct Light: When alpenglow is caused by direct light, the sun has set behind the horizon from an observer’s point of view who is standing on the ground, far below the mountain tops. In this case, direct sunlight is still reaching the mountain tops, and if the observer were standing at the top of the mountains, they would see that the sun was still above the horizon.

Glacier Peak alpenglow from the PCT

The direct sunlight that is reaching the mountains has traveled through significant amounts of atmosphere, due to the sun’s position low on the horizon and the curvature of the Earth. When sunlight travels through more atmosphere, the small blue light waves in the sunlight get scattered, and only the longer red light waves get through.

peek-a-boo slice of alpenglow from Indian Henry’s (Mt. Rainier)

When these red light waves reflect off the mountains, it gives them a bright pink glow. If an instance of alpenglow is caused by direct light, shadows will be present and well defined.

Alpenglow on Ptarmigan Ridge (Mt. Rainier)

Indirect Light: When alpenglow is caused by indirect light, much of the mechanics are similar to when it is caused by direct light. The sun has similarly set behind the horizon for the observer on the ground, but it has also set for the observer on the mountain top.

Alpenglow caused by indirect light (from The Colonnade, Mt. Rainier National Park)

Sunlight from the sun still has to travel through significant amounts of atmosphere, due to the sun’s position near the horizon and the curvature of the Earth. Therefore, the light waves reaching the mountains are still red. But light from the sun is no longer directly hitting the mountains. The only red light waves that are hitting the mountains have been reflected off of elements in the atmosphere.

Morning alpenglow Mt. St. Helens

If alpenglow is being caused by indirect light, its effect is much less pronounced than when it is caused by direct light. The hue of the mountains are a dull pink to almost purple. There are also few if any shadows. According to Wikipedia, this is the only true alpenglow, but that is very much open for interpretation. (end reference)

Mt. Rainier alpenglow from White River

For the most part, I don’t position myself purposefully to capture alpenglow. Most of the time it is a happy confluence of being in the right place for viewing and the right time of day, with the right weather conditions. And, it’s not always the distant lofty mountain views that stun me; sometimes it’s right under my feet.

Skyscraper Pass, Mt. Rainier

Surrounded by the glow

AFRICA

The place, the animals, the song…arranged by willis wall, performed by old friends.

Mt. Rainier National Park in Fall

One of my favorite times of year. That’s all I have to say.

A Jaunt to Summerland and 360 video

After my grueling 3 day Wonderland Trail hike this year, I spent a few sedate days at White River Campground in Mt Rainier National Park just enjoying the fine weather and relaxing. However, on that Thursday September 22nd I decided to run up to Summerland to capture some 360 video. At the current state of 360 affairs, I believe that 360 is best realized for the viewer on a VR headset. Most 360 editors are still presenting on a single screen where they decide where the camera points. I am still experimenting with the format and its possibilities, and in this iteration I authored in split screen, allowing the viewer to see a large swatch of the environment simultaneously. See this shorter version (2:40) for a single screen traditional viewing.

I experimented with wide screen formats 10 years ago by making a custom mount and using 3 cameras. “Walkin’ the Wonderland” is one production which showcases this. With the excellent stabilization of the newer GoPro cameras production values are certainly improved. I have opened comments for this blog article is anyone wants to weigh in on their viewing experience. Bach arrangements by Willis Wall. Happy Hiking!

Wonderland Trail 2010: the "selfie" 3 day hike

I was an early adopter of helmet cams, and was excited to get hold of one of the first Contour 1080P cameras, back when Contour was VHoldR. This whole series was shot at 60fps, and in those days the best quality at this higher frame rate was 720p, which is what this video is authored in. There was an interesting article in the Seattle Times on the Centennial of Mt. Rainier National Park, "100 things to know."

86. Unverified fact: The original selfie stick was a camera mounted to a trekking pole during a 2012 Wonderland Trail expedition.

Well, the selfie stick is credited in the 1980s to Hiroshi Ueda, who worked for Minolta. And assuming they were referencing me, then they were off by two years. But I recently rediscovered these clips and decided to put them together, offering a unique view of the trail. In my recent Wonderland video for #34, I turned the camera on me but once. Times have changed. On another note, my current 3 day transits of the Wonderland are right in line with 12 years ago and even 30 years ago, time wise, so lucky I am! I hope you enjoy! Music by williswall.

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days (#34): Sep 7-9/2022

My annual Wonderland trek is more than just a hike; it's a life event where I immerse myself in the surroundings and go through all the ups and downs (literally), the highs and the lows, the elation and downright pure suffering that comes with such long days. Also, by doing this one particular hike every year I can gauge how my body and mind are coping with advancing age (now 67). This year offered up a full plate; it wasn't as easy as 2021, where I waltzed around with no particular problems. This year I didn't have the hiking resume but thankfully my aerobic fitness was good thanks to lots of cycling. Daily stats are from Strava.

Day 1: Longmire to White River (34 miles/8468' elev) After acquiring a walk up permit the day prior, I started out just before 5 AM on Wednesday heading CCW. Highlights of the day: Reflection Lake early morning with beautiful skies, the usual incredible views from the Cowlitz Divide, with the sublime environment of Ohanapecosh Park in the late afternoon approaching Panhandle Gap. I had prehydrated my dinner and sat just above Summerland to chow down, which is when I discovered I had left my filter somewhere behind. I am doing the Invisalign teeth thing so I'm having to take those in and out whenever I eat, using the filter to rinse frequently. Luckily I had cell service so called my steadfast buddy who would deliver a filter to me at the Fryingpan Creek trailhead at 9 PM. I still felt good enough to actually run from Summerland to the trailhead, arriving at 8:45 with enough time to clean my feet and ready myself for sleep. My buddy arrived right on time and gave me a ride the short distance up to White River, where I threw down my bivy for the night.

Sunset below Panhandle Gap

Day 2: White River to Mowich Lake (31 miles/7,504' elev) In sum, this was not a good day. All night I felt slightly nauseous and got little sleep. I started the climb to Sunrise feeling decidedly unstrong. Finally, I vomited up the prior evening's undigested meal. At Sunrise I was able to eat a little and drink some water, but the rest of the day was playing catch up for my body. The filter was old and put out but a trickle, so I finally decided to fill a bottle with unfiltered water so I could use Tailwind and try to catch up on hydrating. Since I had gone over Spray Park in 2021, I elected to take the lower route and head up to Mowich Lake via Ipsut Pass. This was the lowest point I've experienced in a long time; the trail is downright crappy, steep, brushy and rocky. I was struggling to make the top, with many an epithet spewing forth from my Invisaligned pie hole. Because of the harder day than expected, I could not make my intended destination of the South Mowich River camp, which did not bode well for day 3, the hardest part of the route. I bedded down and dealt with chilly temperatures in my light bivy and 40 degree quilt.

Flowers hanging on in September on the Wonderland Trail

Day 3: Mowich Lake to Longmire (39 miles/8,902' elev) On the trail just after 5 had me feeling more normal; I was finally recovering from the prior day. The climb up to Golden Lakes went well and I felt good the rest of the day, trotting the descents and machine like on the subsequent climbs to Klapatche Park, Emerald Ridge and Indian Henry's. The weather was fine but starting to get some smoke, which thankfully doesn't bother me. Klapatche Park was deserted, and I correctly guessed that most of the night's residents were either not there yet or hanging at St Andrews Lake, since Aurora "Lake" was dry. Sure enough, when I arrived at St Andrews Lake there were a few people scattered around enjoying the environs, including me. I proceeded to soak my feet and splash water on my legs and face. This was a nice pick me up and I departed for the South Puyallup, which came quickly as the trail was ripe for trotting. I had assumed that I would be transiting Emerald Ridge in the dark but got lucky in the timing; I was sans headlamp until departing the ridge. There was just enough light provided by the reflecting mountain. This was also the first time I had seen mountain goats in this area, a special treat. It's these early and late times on the trail that offer up unique experiences every time I go out. We all hike our own hike, but I am not much for camping and prefer to be on trail the majority of the day for these very reasons. I also quite enjoy hiking at night, which on this day proved to be too much enjoyment. I still had to descend to the suspension bridge over Tahoma Creek, climb up to Indian Henry's and descend to cross both Kautz and Pyramid Creeks before dropping down to Longmire. Good thing I am familiar with these areas as crossing at night can be somewhat difficult with lack of clues, cairns or tape. In retrospect I was really glad I didn't have to cross the Carbon at night because that whole area was a mess.

At Rampart Ridge the sign says 2 miles to Longmire, which elicited an "Oh f%$k me" after GPS said I had already done 37 miles, but I finally staggered into the parking lot just past 1 AM. Aside from ultras, this was the longest single day push I had done in quite a few years, but I was glad I was able to pull it off. I am so lucky that my health and mechanics are still going strong as I approach 70, enabling me to hit it hard like 30 years ago. Someday I may have to lengthen my trips...but not today.

The following video is a chronicle of my 34th transit of the Wonderland Trail in Mt. Rainier National Park. As usual I rely heavily on a shoulder mounted GoPro Hero 9 with Max lens for video, and my iPhone 13 for photos and video. My advanced age shows in my methods of composition; one only sees my talking head once in the entire piece, I have no vertical video, and the viewing time is 38 minutes. Enjoy!

Tanzania Safari August 2022

Following our Kilimanjaro climb, my daughter and I spent 4 wonderful days amongst creatures great and small. The sheer number of animals seen every day was mind boggling, especially in the Ngorongoro Crater. We also visited Tarangire and Serengeti National Parks, tent camping in the Serengeti for two nights. We especially liked spending time with the elephants, simply watching the families interacting and munching on various flora. We continued with the same company (Peak Planet) for the safari. Highly recommended! Complete photo selection can be accessed here on Flikr.

Animals galore in Ngorongoro Crater

Secretary bird on the prowl