MRNP: Aurora Peak (6094')/Andrew (6716')

Really, Oct 1st at 4500’!?

It’s been a strange late summer/fall this season. Rainy, cold, days on end. I was looking to flash the Wonderland in October like I did last year, but by the time there was a weather window and time opportunity for my schedule the Cascades had seen quite a bit of snow. I set out on October 1st for a try, and met with snow as soon as I departed White River. As beautiful as it was, the high stepping through drifts up to my knees past Sunrise on the way to Mystic Lake slowed my pace enough that I determined I just couldn’t make good time in these conditions. That was the end of going for Wonderland #32, but it was quite the day.

And so came November, with cold but nice weather for days on end. Mt. Rainier’s West Side road was slated to close on November 4th, so I decided to try for a few peaks utilizing the road for access on the mountain’s west side: Aurora and Andrews. I set off in the morning after it got light on my mountain bike and hoped I’d packed right. In my truck I had an ice axe, snowshoes, poles and a BD Whippet, along with sturdier shoes. However, I set off with my studded Inov8 trail runners and the whippet and left the rest. The West Side road grade is gentle so one can make good time on a bike; I crested Round Pass and rode 8 miles to the St. Andrews Creek trailhead, stashing my steed in the bike rack. On the trail I encountered snow above 5100’ but the crust was hard enough to keep from post-holing. Soon enough I was at Klapatche Park and witnessed something I had never seen before….a frozen Aurora Lake. Frozen enough for me to walk on. However, the weather was beautiful so I continued on solid snow and bare patches of trail to St. Andrews Lake (also frozen) about a mile up the trail. I looked at Andrew (mountain) and decided not to make a go of it on top of Aurora due to the short days. I retraced my steps and encountered no problems ascending Aurora Peak (6094’) which boasted incredible views of the Puyallup formations, and the mountain of course. It was a short jaunt back to my bike and I found myself back at my truck at 3:45. So I had plenty of time to summit Andrew, assuming my calculation of 2 hour round trip was accurate. I have no problems biking in the dark. I drove up the road to Longmire and had dinner, bedding down in my truck for the night. Stats for the day, 27 miles (16 biking)/5700’ elev.

Andrew (6716’)

Day 2 Look at my list of tools I brought to handle varying snow conditions. Lots of options, including clothing. What I failed to pack was a tire repair kit and extra tube. It wasn’t until I lowered my bike from the rack that I saw a completely deflated front tire. Today I would be walking. 4 miles later I was at Round Pass, taking a cut off trail to get on the South Puyallup River trail, then a left on the Wonderland to approach St. Andrews Park from the other direction from yesterday. Temperatures were mild for this time of year and the snow on this day was much softer (no freezing over night). I donned a pair of Rocky Socks to help with errant snow entry in my gaiterless shoes and entered the snow fray at 5400’. I left the snow covered trail before St. Andrews Park and proceeded cross country in the direction of Andrew (6716’), finding some bare patches on steep hillsides on the ascent. Once I crested a saddle the objective was in sight; I kept to the ridge line, then dropped lower to skirt Andrew on the south side, looping around and working my way up a steep snow covered boulder field. As my eyeballs crested, I was relieved to see a flat, snow covered summit plateau sporting incredible views. The air provided a nice layering effect for vistas to the south, spying Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens. I also had an interesting view to the frozen lakes I had visited the day before, St. Andrews and Aurora Lake. I wasn’t concerned about the time as there was plenty for me to get back on the snow covered trail before darkness fell; in fact, I didn’t have to use my torch until the last 30 minutes, arriving at my vehicle at the adjusted “fall back “ time of 6 PM. Since this entire day was on foot, It was a bit more grueling on my bod, covering 25 miles and 5600’.

Layered horizon from the summit of Andrew (6716’)

Despite spending 36 years here, it’s only been the last 10 years or so where I have ventured off trail to explore and tag some of the listed 100 summits in Mt. Rainier National Park. In the process I have explored new areas (to me), gained different vantage points for views, and traveled for hours or days with no other people in sight. To bag a few peaks this late in the season doubled the pleasure with different problem solving, crisp air, short days, lake “walking” and isolation. Despite my deflated steed, just two perfect days.

A frozen Aurora Lake with Aurora Peak (6064’) right frame

The Puyallup formations from the summit of Aurora Peak (6094’)

Frozen St. Andrews Lake with Aurora Lake just seen beyond (from the summit of Andrew)

RIMROBOD Century (October, 2019)

See my prior post on the RIMROBOD Short Course for background. Question: how can one enjoy the incredible scenery of Mt. Rainier National Park and avoid the "garbage miles" of RAMROD (Ride Around Mt. Rainier in One Day: 150 miles/10,000' climb)? My answer is various iterations of RIMROBOD (Ride the Interior of Mt. Rainier Out and Back in One Day: 121 miles/15,600' climb). My first event in 2017 started at Longmire where I rode to the other side of the park (Sunrise) and back, taking under 24 hours but necessitating a nap in the wee hours to recharge. The benefit of the Century iteration for me was being able to do the better part of this ride in 12 hours total (10:28 moving time).

By staying within the confines of Mt. Rainier National Park the cyclist can enjoy a nonstop barrage of eye popping scenery, all the while either climbing or descending, challenging the legs with 11,400' of climb (this Century iteration) while keeping the overall mileage to 100 miles. The beauty of the out and back ride is the different scenery one takes in doing both directions. By positioning my vehicle at Box Canyon, I was able to do the better part of the climbing during daylight hours (an accomplished cyclist could certainly do these rides much faster). In quick succession, one climbs to Backbone Ridge, Cayuse Pass, Chinook Pass, Sunrise and back, logging 10,000’ of climb in less than 90 miles. At Box Canyon, I could choose to continue up the Stevens Canyon road, logging more climb….on this day I chose to turn back below Reflection Lakes as darkness was descending and my total mileage would make the century mark. Although I descended in darkness this road is open and vistas still abound, a caveat being I had to concentrate on the road only visible by my bike light circle.

I have spent years hiking, biking and skiing in this park, and biking the roads within its confines serve up not only a scenic palette but provide any challenge I can think of. There are other benefits; there is little to no cell phone coverage on these roads so the danger of inattentive idiots texting is greatly reduced. The speed limits are usually 35 mph with a smattering of 45 (mostly on highways 410 and 123). The grades of all these climbs are not especially steep, so motoring up the hills for hours on end is possible for anyone with a modicum of cycling background. These milder grades also mean I don’t have to ride the brakes on the descents….only rarely have I even approached 40 mph, with most downhill speeds between 25 and 35 mph. And the smells….fresh air filtered by the surrounding forests, rife with flowered air in summer and nostril burning cold smacking your face by 30 mph speed induced winds in the fall (like this ride).

For background, I’ve always had bikes but was never a “true” cyclist (nor am I now). Sometimes my bike(s) will sit for weeks with no use. But I used to think riding from Longmire to Paradise (11 miles, 2600’) was a killer. Until I did more. Then after that I tried longer. Just like I was able to work up to ultra marathons when I was running, I have found that I can work up to 10,000’ days on a bike in the same manner….just plodding along and doing it, answering that 4 AM alarm, when sleeping in would be oh so much better. Believe me, when you finish a day like this, you know you’re alive.

Technicals: Salsa Cutthroat Rival bike/Snoqualmie Pass road tires (tubeless), Rapha top/bib with PI thermals, GoPro Hero 7 Black chest mount

Morning light on Mt. Rainier from Backbone Ridge

Fall colors in Stevens Canyon, Mt. Rainier National Park

Chinook Pass, one of the climbs on the RIMROBOD Century

RIMROBOD Short Course

To decipher this title and put this post into perspective, you have to reference the original RIMROBOD ride here.

One of the benefits of making your own “course” is to also make variants (stay tuned, the “RIMROBOD Century” may happen this year). Perhaps I’ll do the entire original RIMROBOD this year, but on this day I didn’t have the time or the legs. Therefore, I wanted a RAMROD (Ride Around Mt. Rainier in One Day) type of workout without all that mileage (150). This short course gave me the climbing I wanted without significant distance; I was either going up or down, no cruising sections on this route. SHORT COURSE STATS: 81 miles/9200’ elev.

To approach 10,000’ of climbing, I find that starting at Box Canyon is an excellent option. This puts me in the middle of the park with the ability to ride in either direction. In fact, if I do the entire RIMROBOD (121 miles, 15,600’ elev) this year, I may start at Box Canyon vice Longmire and do out and back from the vehicle, continuing past Box Canyon and putting in the climb to Paradise and descent to Longmire, putting the stats the same as 2017.

It’s still summer so I had to contend with traffic; however, these roads actually add to safety for a couple of reasons. Number 1, there is no cell reception so drivers can’t be distracted with texting. Number 2, the sometimes serpentine roads require lower speeds and driver attention, especially within the confines of the gates. Highway 410 carries traffic through the park on the way to Yakima, but this section is quite short. Speed limits within the gates are usually 35 MPH with short sections of 45 on the Stevens Canyon Road, and drivers on these roads have always been attentive to cyclists. For these reasons I like riding and training in Mt. Rainier National Park, and I can’t think of any other convenient place that can give the rider these types of significant climbs and descents over short distances. Also in my planning is the stop at Sunrise, where I was able to purchase lunch, get coffee, reload my water and quaff some Gatorade. It makes an excellent halfway rest stop.

I like using my Salsa Cutthroat Rival for these longer excursions with significant climbs because of the gearing, comfort and stability of the bike. To put things in perspective, just about every time I climb to Sunrise a number of cyclists pass me…I’m chugging along at maybe 5 MPH so I’m no elite masters cyclist for sure. I simply do jaunts like this to keep my aging body in some semblance of shape, reacquainting myself with discomfort and pain. It’s a small price to pay for the exhilarating descents, the flower show along the roadsides, the bubbling waterfalls along highway 123, the sweet air and even the gusty winds that broadsided me near Sunrise. Just another excellent day in the park!

(Ride the Interior of Mt. Rainier Out and Back in One Day)

Course and climbs, starting and ending at Box Canyon (RIMROBOD Short Course: 81 miles/9200’)

MRNP: Satulick, Iron, Copper Peaks

With somewhat sketchy hiking legs I departed on this jaunt in Mt. Rainier National Park with the intention of bagging 4 peaks: Satulick (5577’), Iron (6283’), Copper (6280’) and Ararat (6010’). Way trails were sketchy to non existent on these scrambles so I spent much time side hilling, ‘schwacking and, in the case of Iron and Copper, gully climbing in order to access those two summit plateaus. None of this scrambling was particularly hard but the somewhat muggy day left me occasionally sweating profusely, especially on the gully climbs to Iron and Copper. My water intake was far more than usual, but the effort to tag these peaks was well worth it. By the time I finished the last peak (Copper) my legs were certainly feeling it so I dropped Ararat from this day’s list so as to arrive back at my vehicle at Longmire at a decent time. I’ve been coming to this park since 1983 and it still astounds me that there are so many more new places to explore personally. Despite it being high season for Wonderland hikers, my hours spent off trail were in complete solitude, and I lingered on the flat summits of Iron and Copper taking in the views in all directions. Once regaining Indian Henry’s I patched up some scratches on my hand from the scramble and paid a visit to Mirror Lake before departing, spending the last hour in the dark and enjoying cooler temperatures. The stats (22 miles/6500’) had my legs a quivering at the end but it was happy pain. Photo set here..

Mirror Lake, Mt. Rainier National Park

Hurricane Ridge Road Bike (Olympic National Park): August-2019

I filmed this classic climb and descent in September of 2015. However, with the newer iteration of GoPro (Hero 7 Black), the quality is so much better that I have retired that first video and replaced it with this. The Hero 7 has such good internal software stabilization that I was able to author this video in 2.7K, the same format I used for recording. I have also embraced the wider view versus the 960 video I have used in the past for biking. But enough about these technical tidbits, let’s consider this climb/descent, arguably one of the finest in Washington State. For my jaunt the start/stop point was a hotel in Port Angeles, WA, making for a 40 mile ride with 5,400’ of climb/descent. This road is in excellent shape and my early start enabled me to leave the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center (Olympic National Park, 5242’ elev) at 9:30 AM. Downhill traffic was light but lots of cars and other cyclists were noted on their ascent. My stats showed consistent speeds of 30 to 38 MPH on the descent. Of note, the steepest grade is actually the first 5 miles of the road until reaching the entry kiosk to the park. The road is slightly over 17 miles long.

Seattle to Portland (STP) 2019: 40th Anniversary

On the 2019 STP with buddy Craig

The video at the end of this article includes snippets from the 2019 40th running of Seattle To Portland (STP), 206 miles. In line with complaints from last year, this year the Cascade Bicycle Club limited the entries to 8,000 (from 10,000); it did in fact seem a bit less crowded. Although the route went through the Ft. Lewis part of JBLM (Joint Base Lewis McChord), we really liked the rest stop a few years ago at McChord, absent again this year. This ride entails modest elevation gains (4,700') so some would consider this a fairly easy ride. This year we saw a unicyclist and a father/son skate pair. The ride has a fun air to it and everyone seems to enjoy themselves. You’ll see plenty of bike videos on williswall.com, as I still find biking an excellent complement to an overall fitness program. Plus, it’s just plain fun. Last year I did STP on my gravel bike (Salsa Cutthroat Rival) but dusted off the vintage Trek 5500 for 2019. If you would like a comparison to the 2014 STP, you can access the video here.

MRNP Whitman Crest/Fryingpan Glacier Ski 6/15/19

As my spring ski jaunts come to an end, I can’t say I’ll miss schlepping my skis and boots for miles for a few thousand feet of ski vertical (in this case 3,000’) but I will miss the exhilaration of strapping in and descending in minutes what it took hours to hike/boot/skin up. This trip started at the Fryingpan Creek trail head (3900’) in Mt. Rainier National Park with a hike to Summerland (6000’) where I stashed my shoes in a tree and started the skin and boot fest to reach the Fryingpan Glacier. From there it was a gentle skin with an ending boot up to Whitman Crest at 9323’, which offers expansive views to Little Tahoma (from this vantage obscuring most of Mt. Rainier) and views southward to Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams. I later learned that my son was “looking at me” from the summit of St. Helens, revisiting a climb we had done together when he was 12 years old.

Looking south towards Mt. Adams from Whitman Crest

The melt off is in full swing, especially after the heat wave we had last week, so it may be time to leave the skis behind and start the hiking season….hello light pack! I took up backcountry skiing 5 years ago and I really don’t do it much, just a few times a year during the spring. However, it has proven to be an excellent addition to my outdoor adventures. In the process I have visited areas on the mountain I would normally bypass as a traditional hike. This trip also provided the opportunity to tag another summit (Whitman Crest) in the park as I continue to explore this gem of the Northwest. STATS: 12 miles/5400’

Black Rock Gear Urban Bug Out Backpack

I bought this bag for a discount during one of Black Rock Gear’s promotion sales, feeling kinda sheepish as I really didn’t need another backpack. However, this bag is an excellent travel pack, small enough to easily fit under an airline seat, thin enough so I don’t have to worry about whacking someone in a crowd as I turn around, yet voluminous enough to carry and organize all manner of travel stuff like chargers, cords, cameras, water, clothing….with the internal “molly strapping” system, I am able to stow my Panasonic G9 with any manner of lens up high in the pack, leaving the bottom of the pack free for other items. Instead of copying the info off the Black Rock Gear site, go here for the extensive feature list for the Urban Bug Out Bag.

Urban Bug Out Bag showing how I configured a strap to hold my G9 in place

I’ve had this bag going on two years and use it for any vacation time spent overseas. During a UK/Scotland jaunt last year, the pack was on my back every day for hours on end. As a testament to the water resistant qualities of the PU coated 420D ripstop material and waterproof zippers, I got drenched on the Isle of Iona (Scotland) which made short order of an eVent jacket; however, my camera and other contents in the pack stayed dry. I also find this bag comfortable even when loaded up with heavy electronic gear and a couple bottles of water as the straps are well padded and ergonomically well crafted.

Drenched outside: pack dry inside; Iona, Scotland

A Peru trip this year saw this pack on my back all day every day, in town or hiking through various Inca sites or trails, taking some abuse in the process. I was able to easily stow it in my baggage for the 4 days we spent on the Inca Trail, then it was back on my back for the remainder of our time and our trip home. With 25L of space and weighing only 1.1 lbs, this pack is my go to for any foray involving airplane travel, city excursions, foreign day hiking etc. I especially like the ability to strap my camera in place higher in the pack along with its myriad pockets, zippers and organizational possibilities. As I approach retirement with extensive plans for future travel with my wife, I’ll most likely take just two bags….the Black Rock Gear Urban Bug Out Bag and a custom Zimmerbuilt Big Step, which I’ll cover in a future post.

Yes, this bag is expensive at $150. However, one should consider the excellent build quality including robust materials, the smart organizational layout with the ability to customize to your preferences with the molly strap system, the fairly light weight of the bag yet able to comfortably carry heavier loads, and the fact that this is a US made product (Seattle). IME it’s worth it.

Urban Bug Out Bag on London/Scotland trip

Abrasive pack abuse, a common occurrence in Peru

Maras salt pond transit, Peru: my Urban Bag was always on my back

Willis Wall Pose Poised for World Wide Infection

I know it’s not just me….I can’t stand those ridiculous Instagram poses. My recent trip to Peru saw scads of mindless tourists sitting, either forward or backwards, with their arms stretched over their heads while friends or strangers clicked away with their phones held upright….pic after pic after pic because that’s what they see on Instagram. Sometimes I doubt they even notice what’s in the background, they just knew this was the place and the pose needed to mimic some other mindless Instagrammer who copied someone else. It really hit home on the top of Huanay Picchu as a large group filed to the “spot” and consumed 10 or 15 minutes snapping their canned poses while the rest of us endured being trapped in swarming bugs and blocked from exiting or perhaps actually getting a nice shot of the background without raised arms in the frame.

Therefore, I am now pushing for a viable alternative, the Willis Wall Pose. No sitting….you gotta balance on one leg while the other is raised 90 degrees. The arms are also raised with a 90 degree bend and palms must be facing outwards. If you can’t hold this pose for more than a second you don’t deserve to do it. If you’re afraid of falling off the precipice due to crappy balance then….don’t do it. AND, there is only one shot required. No turning backwards, no sitting, just one pose for one pic. Then turn around and actually admire the view and perhaps capture this view in a properly oriented photo.

HISTORY The Willis Wall Pose was first struck on the top of Mt. Rainier in the year 2000 out of the sheer exuberance of being on this summit at 6 AM with crystal clear skies. BEHOLD THE BIRTH!

The original and first Willis Wall Pose: summit of Mt. Rainier, 2000

This incredibly sophisticated pose, requiring limber joints and superb balance, was introduced to the trekking world in Peru and is already spreading like wildfire; many thanks to my daughter, who contributed mightily to this outbreak.

Random Dude: “I don’t know what you’re doing, but I’m in!”

To ensure that future generations are introduced to the Willis Wall Pose in South America, we infected our guide Nico, who will surely spread the pose to future trekkers, who in turn will carry this epitome of photographic candidness to Europe, Africa, Canada, Kiwiland, Australia and beyond….bwa haha haha!

Guide Nico adds his own style to the Willis Wall Pose

So mindless Instagrammers, take note. Strike the Willis Wall Pose…..just once! Then enjoy your views and surroundings. Note: pose can be struck on left or right leg.

Cassie and Sarah strike the Willis Wall Pose in perfect unison at 12,916’

This picture is an example of superb form, already perfected by my daughter at age 16:

Cassie demonstrates perfect form on the summit of Mt Adams, 2011

BUT, I’ll end with the master, sensei and originator of the Willis Wall Pose demonstrating execution during a race without breaking stride……

Willis Wall strikes the pose without breaking stride in a foot race

TAKE NOTE AND POSE!

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: May 4-May 7, 2019

My daughter found this trip last year and she and my wife did all the planning, I just followed my daughter like a good Dad. We spent 6 days in Cusco and Urubamba exploring the Sacred Valley and the city prior to the trek, acclimating to the 11,000 foot altitude in the process. The days of hiking the Inca Trail on your own ended in 2010; now you must hire a guide and travel company. There are many available, but in our case we hired Valencia Travel Cusco (guide was Nico) and couldn’t have been happier with the experience. On any day there are 500 people on the trail, with 200 being hikers and the other 300 spots occupied by porters and guides. One may think this out of whack, until you see the incredible logistics involved in pampering us trekkers. Cassie and I shared a 4 person tent, always set up and waiting for us at the end of the day, along with containers of hot water with soap and a washcloth. Our group had a total of 7, all wonderful people who made this journey a true delight. My daughter and I ended up hiking mostly with Sarah and Kenny, a younger fit couple. Sarah was a beast, always beating us to the passes…..she even carried a 6 pack of beer to 13,776 feet, passing everyone including porters. Speaking of which, you have the option of hiring a personal porter to carry up to 7 KG of your belongings. To our surprise, Cassie and I were the only ones carrying all our accoutrements; sleeping bags, pads and clothing. However, our loads were quite light nonetheless since all meals were provided. We barely touched our snack foods.

Qochapata (12,916’)

I should mention that I used the phrase “this is ridiculous” many times as mountains of food were placed in front of us worthy of any restaurant. One evening, when we arrived at camp over an hour before the rest of our group, a huge plate of popcorn appeared along with some won tons with fried banana. We had purchased some Pisco and beer along the way so a good time was had by all. Vegetarian options (my daughter and myself) were offered along with delights like flaming dessert and even a cake! The grapes were peeled! We had a proper table cloth, folding chairs and a gas powered light in the dining tent. In the morning our alarm was an offering of hot tea along with hot water for bathing. I should also mention that everyone had a covered foam mattress in their tents…we just put our pads on top.

Classic shot of Machu Picchu

Weather along the trail was mostly good, with occasional rain showers but never a steady soaking rain. Evenings were not that cold; my daughter’s 35 degree Feathered Friends bag was more than adequate for the conditions. Considering the numbers of people along this entire 26 mile route, we were surprised at how often we hiked in solitude, sometimes for hours. However, be prepared for steps, and lots of them. Most of this route is stone laid and one’s knees might take a beating on the downhills depending on personal conditioning. Cassie and I found that the days were easily negotiated with plenty of spare energy to explore the ruins or climb to catch that extra view. Some may complain that this trek and Machu Picchu itself are too “touristy”, but my daughter and I found that this experience was one of our most enjoyable times outdoors. Immense views, sometimes empty trail, ever changing vistas, good company, an engaging guide, a multitude of ruins along the way, gourmet food….this was truly a lifetime experience. For the full photo set please click here.

Incredible stone work at Machu Picchu

The following video samples some of the trail from a shoulder mounted GoPro 7, including the climb to the prominent peak overlooking Machu Picchu, Huayna Picchu (this must be arranged beforehand). In the video I used the local spelling of the peak printed on the guide, “Wayna Picchu.”

“Huayna Picchu (aka Wayna Picchu or Wayna Pikchu), which means 'Young Peak' in Quechua, is the large mountain that sits directly behind Machu Picchu. For many trekkers, climbing Huayna Picchu is one of the highlights of a visit to Machu Picchu.”